This translation is for use with the Yoshida Style BJD Making Guide Book only. This is in no way intended for use without the book as a. Yoshida Style English - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online . ¥) ISBN X (Manual of Fine Arts Anatomy . Use general-type Materials: soft styrene foam for making the core. cut the patterns .. Ball-jointed dolls are made in parts. sculpt. which run from Consult. Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd. Flag for This translation is for use with the Yoshida Style BJD Making Guide Book only. This is in no.
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Title: YOSHIDA STYLE ball jointed doll guide. Page number ISSUU Downloader is a free to use tool for downloading any book or publication on ISSUU. YOSHIDA STYLE ball jointed doll guide. ball jointed doll guide by julian_design · Cover of " Fall Allen Edmonds Style Guide" · Fall. As a new member of the Sculpey Design Squad, my name is Maria Saracino & I' m a figurative doll artist. My sculpting style is realistic with an element of whimsy.
We will make enough to paint the whole body. If you understand this. The center line of the joint is the center line of the ball!! You may also make the parting and whorl by making holes in the top of the head. Take a piece of polymer clay which is the appropriate size for the pupils. Step 2 None Yet
Previous page. List all Images. Item picture. Item series: Intermediate Edition theme indirect replication! This is a machine translation. Please allow for possible misinterpretations in the text. Explanation in Japanese. Wholesalers occasionally put restrictions on the number of pre-orders for extremely popular items, in which case we would be unable to deliver the items to every customer.
Sales prices and specifications can differ from those initially planned. For more information,please read "About Pre-order Sale". Previous page HOME. Hobby Magazine New Items. The glue reacts An abrasive material used for erasing that can be used for gluing paper. Bamboo Spatula Art Knife The commonly sold bamboo spatula is the same as the one in the The handle is slim like a pen. If you choose to customize your own several replacement blades beforehand.
It resembles a way that is easy for you to use. The drill itself is simply a applied to each side of the object to be using on resin.. After carefully inserting This can bond many types of materials. Make sure you push the as a set to work with and to achieve maximum two sides together as strongly as possible results. The joints will be made at a later stage so please concentrate on drawing the body line without thinking about the joints.
This 5mm the same level on the front and side view. In physique also. Even before Materials: It would be good to consult sketches of people in art books.
Please take care to draw each point chin. This is very important because the core will be carved on the basis of this sketch.
When the sketch is finished. Start by drawing the mid-line. See pg. You can turn them over to make patterns for the opposite side. Draw half of the front-view head and body with the mid-line on the tracing paper overlaid on the mid-line of the sketch. Please arrange it so that the thickness of Draw the arms to one side. Fold the tracing paper in two along the mid-line and cut out.
When you flatten it out this will make a pattern with left-right symmetry. Cut the styrene foam out You have cut out 6 blocks. Make sure you have a vacuum cleaner on hand before you start. Use general-type Materials: Use a marker pen to transfer each of When you have marked out the sides.
Cut the styrene Cut the styrene foam out Shave the core foam into blocks following the paper pattern Carve a core to use in making the clay base. Start with the side patterns first. Cut the styrene foam into 6 blocks Place the pattern pieces on the You should have marked Cut out the blocks using the Use the appropriate tool for the front and sides of the styrene out 6 blocks for the head.
Take care while carving the curve of one point. For older faces. If you hold the knife at an angle a keyhole saw with a sharp. Because the eyes. Gradually shave off them out. The core of the head If you want to make a cute. In There is only one pattern for each Reinforce the easily-breakable Having cut out the styrene the same way. Hold the knife vertically whilst Point: It is easier to cut around curves using styrene you have just cut. The body is now cut out. There is more detail to make on the face than on the other parts.
The deep hollow styrene stage. Advanced Methods: Reusable Cores There is also a way that you can remove the core without destroying it by using a harder material like Styrofoam for example. If the core is not made properly. Wrap the styrene in plastic or vinyl wrap and secure it tightly with tape. If you reuse a badly made core. When it comes to the core. Cut with a knife through the depth of the clay only. To prevent warping.
Apply soft. This method of breaking the work down piece-by- piece makes it. When the outside of the clay is dry and the inside is half-dry. The finished styrene core. Test it against the plan and make sure that the thickness of the clay will be correct.
If you over-carve the core slightly this can be corrected at the clay stage. Cover it with clay and mould it to shape. The end result of this clay when dry is very fragile and similar to raw unfired clay.
Artista Formo Wood Clay This modeling clay has more fibers and the texture is coarser Made of a mixture of natural wood powder and chemical glue.
Because when it dries it white. There are three types: There is also Wood Formo that looks like wood. Styrene Ball Styrene Foam A styrene foam ball. You should knead well before weak with water so make sure you use it thick enough. It is a clay use to soften up the clay fibers. It is also making bisque dolls and the like.
You than La Doll. If you use adhe.
This clay is light and of people use it for making the core. It is also appropriate for take further applications of clay well once it has dried. For a much stronger end product. As far as possible.
You will get a good. On top of this. D D To make the clay as sticky as Point: Prepare your clay board. Put the final touches Stretch clay Wrap the core in clay on the base From here on we will be getting into more and more Materials: Letting them dry on their side will lead to distortions.
If the clay is wrapped parts where the clay has been over-applied. Check all the proportions against the sketch again. If a layer of air gets between the bits of clay this will cause cracks later and make it brittle.
Joining clay together When you are joining bits of of clay together. Gradually stretch and thin out the clay towards the ends of the limbs and then it will wrap well. They will be less likely to break if you joints will be created later shoulders. Knead it well and the bits of clay will become like one piece. The clay. Adjust any that the styrene is wrapped in clay. Try to get the too thickly.
Remove a circle of clay so that you can Wrap the arms and legs in clay in the same see the styrene at all the places where way. Rub the seams together so that the clay becomes like one piece. When this stage of the process is finished. Before you let them dry. Each sculptor can make an individual doll based on their own thoughts. Try drawing the general image you wish to Wet the surface of the dry clay and use From the side.
Make it three- up the clay without drawing. There are many expressions outside of the obvious smiling and crying. The face can be called the life of the doll. To make a cute. You should make the overall and dry clay become like one piece. Rub it firmly halfway from front to back. There is a tendency to concentrate on one When the overall positions are decided. Please do it so that the wet dimensional. The important thing in modeling a face is balance.
Make a foundation Model a nose. Later we will put artificial eyes in. As with the body. Model the inner corner of the eyes inner canthus. In adults. The bottom of the ear lobe is in line with the jaw line.
Next we sculpt the ears. The place where the upper part of the ear attaches is higher than the cheek bone. Sculpt the details using a spatula and brush. Attach the clay firmly and make the outline of the ear. When each feature is finished. The brush is more convenient for brush loaded with water on clay with a wet upturned nose.
D Make the corners of the eyes continuous with the lower Always take care to keep the eyeball spherical. The ear is positioned halfway eyelids. The eyes artificial are spherical.
Using slight exaggeration will give it a more three-dimensional feel. Recheck the balance of the entire head and each Adjust the eyes. The final adjustments will be made with a file and sanding later on. That is to say. Please inspect it from left to right. Newcomers to sculpture tend to make the face too flat. Please think about the face and the whole body image together as you make it. Adjusting the proportions Make the detail Regulation Of course there is expression in the body.
Recently it has been said that the expression Materials: The glue is harder than the clay and will create a raised seam when it comes to sanding. Fine cracks can be repaired by simply adding more clay.
After dampening the crack with water. Avoid using wood glue or similar products to repair cracks. Repairing cracks When you leave the clay to dry a few cracks will appear due to the contraction.
It is best to prepare the clay in advance. First widen the crack with a After wetting the crack with cutter. Please align and check all of the parts together from time to time. Ball-jointed dolls are made in parts. Please consult anatomy manuals for artists See pg. The modeling of the shoulder is and round. The fingers surpass all else as a tool. On parts that you wish to appear soft The deltoid muscles. Make the detail When you have filed the body so the You must moisten the surface of the dry clay and rub the wet final shape is visible.
Because of this. You beautiful finish by using your fingers. Tendencies with arm length Arm length varies between individuals. Model the arms Model the legs Materials: Please take care because the length of the arm will increase when you add the ball joint at the wrist. Take your time and spatula carefully observe the human body.
Human circular movement in the arms and legs is governed by the muscles that stretch between the joints. First compare the length. In short. Here I am making average proportions. The top to wrist. They should be slightly thickness of the shoulders and shorter than thigh height.
Mark it with a the halfway point of the arm. If you make the legs long.
When the styrene comes through. Repair the clay Adjust the shape. Align the legs with the body Please check the thickness is Next compare the two legs Check both legs from the in the same way as for the in proportion from the waist to for length and thickness and front as well.
In this case. There are times when you will expose the styrene core by carving or rasping. Also compare the thickness Carve it with a cutter etc. The structure of muscles Joints are intersections The muscles of the arms and legs are complicated. Carve the inside of the calf with a cutter or rasp etc. If you emphasize the muscles of the arms almost unlimitedly you will create a burly.
Try to keep all these complicated will become easier if you muscles in mind as you sculpt. The lower front added later. Please make sure there is a difference between the in the same way. Please refer to a number of naked photos and anatomical drawings first. The brachioradialis muscles are modeled muscle that runs down from the elbow with the properly first.
Try to be conscious of the flow of the muscles as The ball joints will be much as possible when you sculpt. Looking at the famous Materials: In order to cover the wires with Lightly cover the glue-covered wire Roll the wire around to cover it with This is groundwork to make it easier cotton.
Because fingers are easily thicker stuff. Please take care not to wrap the cotton too thickly. Make cores for the hands Wrap the hand cores in clay Model the feet Next to the face. Please avoid using the chin to the forehead.
Saturate the knot with instant nippers. This completes the core. Stainless steel wire middle finger is the same as from is also good. Please Give expression to the finger cores. The thread should be good and Look at it again. Attach the hand to the arm and The joint of the thumb is in a different Make flat pieces of clay to wrap the Apply glue to the fingers. If you are making extremely cute dolls should have smaller small or cloth-stuffed dolls you hands.
Adjust the shape of the palm. Finger expression Straight fingers give a hard. The size iron wire. If you thin out the clay Make sure it has a good balance The distance from the wrist to the at the tips of the fingers now. Hand cores Armature Hand size The thickness of the wire should In comparing the hands with suit the size of the doll. Tightly tie a thread at the the hands without any clay. If the balance of the First make the palm of the hand.
You the face. Please move the fingers with narrow pliers. Wrap each finger from the palm side. Model If you find the tips of the fingers and fingernails Model the other hand in the same way.
Compare the two from all directions and finish the second hand. Once you have wrapped the finger. Compare the sides. Adjust the balance with a bush or spatula. Compare the backs of the hands. When they are dry. Model each of the toes with a spatula.
Foot size Compared with the hands. Roughly model bases for the feet in Draw on the ankle. There are differences between individuals. Please decide on the age and image you want. If the hands are big. Please refer to the finger instructions for how to make them. Look at the features of your own feet.
In that case. Advanced level: Making cores for the feet You can also model each of the dolls toes separately. Viewed from above. The two on the right are foot cores. A line on the sole of the foot which extends from the big toe bone makes the inside of the foot high. Wrap them in clay same basic way. Because the length of the toes is more that will become the the toe joints.
It is important to compare the left and right frequently. Please bend the wires being aware Cover the wires in glue as you did Make the top of the foot in the Cover the toes with glue in the of thickness at the inside of the top with the hands.
You can quickly get a smooth surface surfaces. Metal rasp Sanding sponge Sandpaper You should sand each part of the Materials: The sanding process Always start sanding using a coarse-toothed rasp. No matter how neatly you model the surface Metal rasps of the the clay. If you You should use the coarse- miss this stage out and go toothed rasp for modeling.
You will then have scratches and parts that still to go back and start over with need sanding. Aside from simply using them flat to polish. Fine- toothed ones are convenient for delicate parts. Cut a small piece of sandpaper Make the tip into a point.. Use it on the delicate parts. Cut it to suit the shape of the part you want to sand. When it comes to larger ones. Sanding sponges I recommend sanding sponges.
They are soft on the hands. Setting up Preparing the sockets Making balls Wrist and ankle balls and cutting the joints. There are lots of opposing views about how to Materials: The neck, shoulder, elbow, knee and hip joints will have styrene cores, but the wrists and ankles will be solid clay.
The clay in the wrist and ankle joints needs to be thick enough to embed wire in. We are going to cut the Mark the cut lines, making center line of the knee, ankle sure that the lengths are the and elbow joints.
Cut the knee at the center Cut the ankle at the center Cut the elbow at the center Here they are with one side cut.
Positions of center lines The thickness of the knee. Compare the length of the arms with the body. They should be slightly shorter than thigh height.
Here I am making average proportions. In this case. Box Tendencies with arm length Arm length varies between individuals. Carve the styrene down. The position of the elbow is below the halfway point of the arm.
If you make the legs long. Repair the clay 3. The top part of the arm is longer. Sartorius muscle. Carve under the knee in the same way. Check that the inside of the knee overhangs and the outside is indented. Next compare the two legs for length and thickness and adjust if necessary. Joints are intersections where muscles cross. Try to keep all these complicated muscles in mind as you sculpt.
Align the legs with the body in the same way as for the arms. The line of the legs viewed from the front at the inner thigh and around the knee creates the difference between left and right and so is very important.
Try to be conscious of the flow of the muscles as much as possible when you sculpt.
Carve to adjust the attachment places. Please check the thickness is in proportion from the waist to the thighs. Please refer to a number of naked photos and anatomical drawings first. Please make sure there is a difference between the lines of the inside and outside of the calf. The lower front side of the deltoids with the upper arm biceps and the back of the upper arm triceps. Check both legs from the front as well.
Make the shins below the knee longer to create a slender and carefree impression. If you emphasize the muscles of the arms almost unlimitedly you will create a burly. Carve the inside of the calf with a cutter or rasp etc. Carve following the line of the sartorius muscle in the inner thigh. Orange box The structure of muscles The muscles of the arms and legs are complicated. The brachioradialis muscle that runs down from the elbow with the flexor carpi radialis muscle and the flexor carpi ulnaris muscle etc.
The ball joints will be added later. Decide on the size of the hands. Stainless steel wire is also good. Box Hand cores The thickness of the wire should suit the size of the doll. As for the toes. Make cores for the hands 2. Wrap the hand cores in clay 3.
Because fingers are easily damaged we model them around a wire core. Lightly cover the glue-covered wire with cotton. Roll the wire around to cover it with the cotton. Cut 10 pieces of aluminum wire 1.
Model the feet Main block of text Next to the face. Please avoid using iron wire.
Modeling the hands and feet. You should use thicker stuff for a larger doll. In order to cover the wires with cotton. If the wire is bent. Please take care not to wrap the cotton too thickly.
If you are making extremely small or cloth-stuffed dolls you can simply build up the cotton to the right thickness and model the hands without any clay. Looking at the famous brand antique dolls which history has left to us. This is groundwork to make it easier for the clay to stick. First prepare a number of sections of absorbent cotton. Once you have wrapped the finger. First make the palm of the hand. This completes the core.
Wrap each finger from the palm side. Compare the sides. Compare the two from all directions and finish the second hand. Box Finger expression Straight fingers give a hard. Look at it again. Model them as completely as you can. The distance from the wrist to the finger joints varies. Adjust the balance with a bush or spatula.
If you find the tips of the fingers and fingernails difficult to model in soft clay. Familiarize yourself with the muscles of the fingers and how they move. Adjust the balance of the finger lengths. Wrap the palm in clay. The size varies between individuals. Please take care not to make the palm square.
Make flat pieces of clay to wrap the fingers in. Compare the backs of the hands. Attach the hand to the arm and check the thickness of the palm. Model the other hand in the same way. Box Hand size In comparing the hands with the face. Thinly cover the core in wood glue to make the clay stick better. If you thin out the clay at the tips of the fingers now. Adjust the shape of the palm. Tightly tie a thread at the wrist position. The joint of the thumb is in a different position from the rest of the fingers.
If the balance of the fingers is wrong. The thread should be good and strong. Roughly model bases for the feet in clay. Please move the fingers with narrow pliers. Saturate the knot with instant glue to reinforce it. When you have attached clay to all five fingers and modeled the muscles etc. When they are dry. Apply glue to the fingers. Give expression to the finger cores.
Look at the features of your own feet. Cover the wires in glue as you did with the hands. Make the top of the foot in the same basic way. Orange box Advanced level: Making cores for the feet You can also model each of the dolls toes separately. Cut the bent wires at a point short of the toe joints. Bend the arranged wires at the point that will become the inside of the heel. Model the muscles and roundness with a wet brush on the sole as well. The two on the right are foot cores. In that case.
It is important to compare the left and right frequently. There are differences between individuals. Because the length of the toes is more even than that of fingers.
Model each of the toes with a spatula. Please bend the wires being aware of thickness at the inside of the top when it is wrapped in clay. Draw on the ankle. Wrap them in clay and make the top and sole of the foot. If the hands are big. Viewed from above. Please refer to the finger instructions for how to make them.
Cover the toes with glue in the same way that you did for the hands. Wrap them in absorbent cotton. Wet the areas you want to add clay to with a brush. Box Foot size Compared with the hands. Please decide on the age and image you want. A line on the sole of the foot which extends from the big toe bone makes the inside of the foot high.
When polishing comparatively simple surfaces. You will then have to go back and start over with the rasp. If you miss this stage out and go straight for the fine sandpaper. Box The sanding process Always start sanding using a coarse-toothed rasp.
Use a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth to get rid of the clay dust as you work. You will get a smoother shape if you use a rasp first. You should use the coarse-toothed rasp for modeling. Even out the surface. Fine-toothed ones are convenient for delicate parts. You may think you it will be okay to go straight in with sandpaper.
You can quickly get a smooth surface if you use a coarse-toothed rasp. The coarse-toothed rasp has left scratches. No matter how neatly you model the surface of the the clay. When it comes to larger ones. Make the tip into a point. Use it on the delicate parts.
They are soft on the hands. Aside from simply using them flat to polish. Other picture: An example of how to use the fine-toothed metal file half round. Middle orange box Sanding sponges I recommend sanding sponges.. Cut a small piece of sandpaper and fold it up.
Cut it to suit the shape of the part you want to sand. Picture 1 shows a medium sanding sponge. Making balls 4. Even in antique dolls there are many different types of BJDs.
Here they are with one side cut. Setting up and cutting the joints 2. Cut the knee at the center line of the knee. In Japan. We are going to cut the center line of the knee. Cut the ankle at the center line of the ankle. Wrist and ankle balls Main block of text There are lots of opposing views about how to joint dolls.
In 18th century Europe. The doll we are making now has 13 joints: Mark the cut lines. The neck. This time. Left picture: Following the line of the body Right picture: Moving towards the inside of the body. Orange box Choosing the ball size The size of the balls is even more important than getting the lines in the right place.
I have used a mixture of both types. The clay in the wrist and ankle joints needs to be thick enough to embed wire in. Preparing the sockets 3. If the ball is large.
Cut the elbow at the center line of the elbow. The size of the finished balls varies between joints. The back half of the knee joint will be cut diagonally.
The diameter of this circle will be the diameter of the ball. Do the same on the elbows. Please make the elbow in the same way. If we carve away the places marked in red on the diagram where the edges are thick. Box How to carve the edges Adjust the edges so that the finished ball line and the line of the body part become one part in outline. Pull out the styrene core from the other parts as well. Roll the clay out flat in the same way as you did when making the body.
For the knees and elbows. The knee has been carved. We will make the balls at the next stage. Use ready-made styrene foam balls for the cores. Make delicate adjustments. This is to make cavities to thread the elastic through later. Adjust the shape to fit the ball.
Draw one on the thigh side as well. Prepare styrene balls that are smaller than the finished diameter of the ball joints. Draw lines on the cross-section of the knee between the center lines you just drew. The angles that you cut here will be the angles that the knee and elbow joints can move through.
Carve the back half of the knee up to the center line with a woodworking rasp. Wrap the flattened clay around the styrene balls.
Use a cutter or coarse-toothed round metal rasp. Check and adjust the size so that it makes a natural line with the arm from the front and side. Use nippers to cut the aluminum wire down as short as possible. Make it so the ball is hidden. Make the ankle ball with just clay. Fill the wrists with soft clay and make round hemisphere shapes. Hollow out the inside edges with a round chisel. This is the elbow. For the neck. Make it so that the knee ball fits the previously made inside of the knee joint.
The center line of the joint is the center line of the ball!! So that the hip balls follow the line of the body. Carve the foot down with a rasp until level with the center line of the ankle. Please fit to the leg and decide on the size of the ankle ball. In both the shoulders and hips. Fix in the hip joint ball. Now we will fix the various balls into one side of the joints. We have fixed the hip ball to the thigh part. Now fix the other hip joint in the same way.
The balls for the joints are fixed-type. Fix the hip joints. Align the center line of the knee with the cut part of the front side. Decide on the position of the hole. Dig out the styrene core. Dig out the styrene. Please neatly remove the excess clay with a bamboo spatula.
Using a round chisel. Please maintain a 5mm overlap where the ball will be fixed in. Rub in to fix. Moisten the hip joint you are going to fix to with water and then apply soft. Rub soft. Please proceed being consciously aware of where the center line of each ball will come. There are 13 joints altogether. Rub clay onto the knee ball as well. Open a hole in one part of the ball.
Align the ball with the thigh-side of the joint. Fix the elbows and knees. Also moisten the hip joint ball with water and apply soft. Fix the shoulders Main block of text We have made balls of the appropriate size for each joint. I am only explaining the essential points. In this case the slots will move in the wrong direction if the ball is not fixed. Align the red mark with the lower arm and.
When fixing the shoulder ball to the upper arm. Please take care not to apply too much clay as you will fill in the hole. Box The holes in the shoulder balls Please take special care when fixing the shoulder balls. Push the ball into the front of the knee as much as possible. If you fix on the shoulders with the holes on opposite sides of the cross-section. The center line of the shoulder joint comes at the point where the sides of the underarm and body meet. Remove the excess clay with a bamboo spatula.
Decide on the position of the hole with surrounding overlap. Rub clay over the portions to be joined and fix in place. This is to stop the kneecap getting too thick. Check them from the front. Box On the size of holes and balls. Adjusting the contact points. Take care because the ball must be completely dry and fixed in for this to work.
Making the sockets. If you make the holes different sizes on the left and right sides. Keeping the axis central.
Apply a layer of kneaded clay around the thigh hole. This is me carving the shoulder part. Please also check from the sides. The stability of the doll depends on this stage of the procedure. Test fit the hip joints with the body. Particularly in the case of the hips. Try fitting the parts with the balls in to the upper hip joint and check for gaps. This stage is very important in creating a doll that can stand on its own.
Please take care over the size of the holes and balls of the hips. Adjusting the thickness of the the hip sockets. Please verify the elbow.
Make the size of the holes on the left and right equal. Moisten the lower knee ball. Please remove the remaining styrene core. Brown arrows 1. If there are gaps. The knee socket is finished. If you establish the socket shape by pressing the balls in with the joint in a bent position.
For the legs this is an erect standing posture. It takes skill. The shoulder sockets are made in the same way. When making the socket part of the joints. Particularly with the knees. Pull the joint apart while turning it left and right on the same central axis. The socket of the hip joint is finished. Moisten the ball on the thigh-side of the joint.
If you wet the ball part of the joint with plenty of water. Please make the elbow sockets in the same way. If the range of movement is too limited. Please proceed carefully here as well. Next is the hip joints.
Please make sure that when the ball is in the inside of the knee. Make the ankle and wrist sockets in the same way. Make them in the same way as for the knees. Adjust it so that the body. You can carve away slightly from the front and back of both and still preserve the appearance and range of movement. It will fall over. At this point. If you hollow out part of the jaw on the outside of the socket marked in red.
Please place the ball and head on the neck. Make the joint so that one third of the ball is in both the neck and head sides. Carve the inside of the head and neck. We will set up the neck joint by putting a ball in between the head and neck. Carve the joint surfaces 2. Because we fixed the ball into the neck. The scope of the remaining middle third of the ball creates the range of movement of the head. Please refer to the previous section for how to fix the ball in and make the socket.
If you fix the ball to the head. When carving the hole on the head side. Choosing whether to fix the ball in to the head or neck side of the joint will change the overall design. Please neaten by removing the excess clay with a bamboo spatula. You can also make the neck as a separate part. Fix the ball in. We will fix the ball to the neckside of the joint. Orange box Position of the neck ball joint.
As with the other joints. The joint will move well if the ball is slightly larger than the cross-sectional width of the neck. Fix in the ball Main block of text All the body ball joints are finished.
If you join a circular ring to the ball a ring with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the ball. This is usually because the top of the neck has been molded into a hemisphere. Make the socket on the neck side. If you understand this. If you wish you can mould the neck without making a separate ball. Open the hole in the ball. This is how to fix the ball into the head.
Please choose how you would like to make it. In the opposite way to how we did it before. The most common reason for unstable. Open the eyelids 3. Open up the head 2. Dig out the styrene from the inside. This an important stage for breathing life into the doll. Before you cut. Close the head Main block of text Putting the eyes in brings so much more life to a dolls expression. The size of the foreign-made eyes depends on the individual maker.
This is what it looks like with the styrene all gone. Box Eye size The pupil size I want for the doll I am making here is 9mm. If I wanted to make a cuter. In my experience. Please refer to the next section if you wish to make your own eyes. Aside from the spherical eyes. If you make the opening too narrow. The top part that is going to be cut off will be returned to the same position later. Japanese-made glass eyes are not something you can easily pick up in craft stores. I am going to prepare 16mm gray ones and 18mm green ones.
Please mark the size of the pupils that you would like with a pencil on to the eye-part of the head. Determine the eye size from this diameter. I think there are probably only a few makers in existence. Silicon eye. Cut off the top part of the head with a saw.