Official Owners Manual for Honda from the Honda Owners Site. Free PDF Downloads for all Engine sizes and models for Honda Odyssey. This is the Highly Detailed factory service repair manual for the HONDA ODYSSEY, this Service Manual has detailed illustrations as well.
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Don't have an account? Make cer- tain to clear out any water and ice that may be present. For these ring-type chains, be sure the open connection is on the bottom of the wheel. After you have driven 50 to feet, you must get out and re-tighten the chains, which will likely have some slack from evening out across the tires. Remove the headlight from the bracelet area and discard it. Check with your city for recycling days or centers. That's it!
What You'll Need It's important to use the correct tools for the job. Using the wrong tool, or using the right in the wrong way, may cause sparking. So make sure you've got correct tools before you start. Don't worry if you if you can't figure out the diameter of the fuel line, because the auto parts store can look it up.
You must always replace the fuel filter on your vehicle if you will be changing the fuel hose. Remove the Old Fuel Line Once you have all your tools and new parts at the ready, you can begin the process of replacing your fuel hose. Locate the fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse.
Start the engine and run it until it stops. Remove the fuel filter and trace the fuel line to the transfer unit. Remove the air cleaner if you are changing the hose leading from the fuel filter to the carburetor. Put rags under the end of the hose where the gasoline will come out.
Loosen the metal hose clamps just until the clamp slides back over the bump that is close to the end of the line. Place a rag over the end of the hose as you remove it from the filter.
If the hose sticks and is difficult to remove, use the pliers to grip and turn the hose. If the hose still does not come away easily, use the razor knife to split the hose along the direction of the line. Have the shop rags ready, because the fuel in the line will begin to drain once the hose has been removed.
Remove the fuel line from the steel tube at the fuel block. Twist it a bit if it is stuck. After you remove the hose, clean off any dirt, hardened rubber, fuel, or other contaminants from the steel tube. Place the old hose on your work bench to measure the new hose, adding an extra two inches. Attach the New Fuel Hose Now that you've got the old hose removed, here's the steps you'll need to take: Place the still-loose clamps over the new fuel hose. Be sure the clamp screws face the correct direction for easy tightening.
Check the new fuel filter to be sure it faces the correct fuel-flow direction. Place the hose ends on the steel tube and at the new fuel filter. Check the new fuel line for fit.
If there are any kinks in the hose, remove the hose and trim a bit from the ends. Replace the clamps in the correct position and tighten the screws to hold them firmly in place. Reattach the hose to the new fuel filter, and then tighten the clamp. Reattach the vehicle's battery cables. Dispose of gasoline soaked rags, the old fuel line, and any contaminated items properly. That's it! You've just replaced your fuel line. May you have excellent gas mileage, perfect performance, and a great ride!
How To Check Tire Pressure Back in the days of full-service gas stations, checking the tires was part of the deal. Today, as many motorists pump their own gas, and as even full-service does not include a tire pressure check, it is important for drivers themselves to be aware of their tire conditions and pressure. Inflating and maintaining proper tire pressure ensures safer, more comfortable driving and better fuel efficiency.
Particularly in times of high gas prices; in inclement driving conditions such as heavy rain, snow, or ice; and in vehicles of all sizes, tire pressure can make a major difference in driving, wherever you are. Given the importance of the task, you might think it is complicated, but checking and maintaining your tire pressure is simple, provided you have a good tire air pressure gauge and source of air, both of which are available at many gas stations.
Get a Gauge A simple tire air pressure gauge, available at most auto parts stores, for a few dollars, is adequate for the job. You do not necessarily need a digital air pressure gauge. However, you should consider whether it will require batteries, and whether this would prevent you from using it. Again, a standard pressure gauge that measures pounds per square inch PSI and fits easily in the glove box of your vehicle, is sufficient.
Do avoid ultra-cheap models that may not give a proper reading. As for a source of air, many gas and service stations have air available for 50 cents or so. Some of these air machines have gauges on them, and if you have no other means of measuring the pressure of your tires, these will work. However, they are typically beat and inaccurate, so have your own gauge to ensure the proper PSI for your tires and vehicle.
Checking Pressure PSI is measured by the notches on a tire air pressure gauge or with a number reading on digital gauges. To find out what PSI is right for your tires, look on the tires themselves. When buying new tires, or getting a rotation, it's a good idea to ask what the right pressure is. Recommendations may vary, but you should never inflate the tires five PSI more or less than what is recommended on the tire. Under-inflating wears out the sides of the tire, and is actually a driving hazard.
Over-inflated tires will wear more quickly, and are also dangerous because of the increased possibility of a blowout. If you are unsure about the PSI for your tires, or it is unclear or worn away on the side of your tires, ask your mechanic or someone who knows about vehicles what PSI you should have for your tires. Larger vehicles with larger tires, including bigger sedans, usually have higher pressure, around 45 PSI.
Tires should all be inflated to the same PSI for safety, proper vehicle function, comfort, and fuel efficiency. Also, check your vehicle's tire pressure when the tires are cold. This means the tires should not have been driven on for at least three hours. If you need to drive to get air, try to drive less than a mile.
Or, slightly under-inflate the tires to compensate for the warmer air inside them, and then check the pressure again when you can get a cold reading. To get a PSI reading on your tire, place the air pressure gauge onto the tire's valve stem, the pencil-width air nozzle on the side of the tire. Try to place the gauge evenly onto the valve stem.
This will allow air to escape, but once you firmly press the gauge down on the valve stem, it will stop the flow of air and give your gauge a reading, either by blowing out the metered stick with a traditional gauge, or a reading with a digital model gauge. It is best if you can park your car centered on the source of the air, which usually has a hose to reach the vehicle's tires. You may need to move the car to reach all of the tires, depending on the situation. Before you pay any money for air or start pumping up your tires, remove the caps on all the tire valve stems.
Next, you should check the pressure of all four tires, noting which ones need the most air. This will help you maintain uniform pressure in the tires, some of which may need less air.
Hot weather, extreme temperatures and other conditions can cause the air in your tires to expand, and PSI can subsequently increase. Once you know which tires need more air, you can deposit coins into the air machine, or get your air hose ready.
Choose the first tire to fill, and fit the air hose nozzle onto the tire stem. When you start to place the air hose onto the tire stem, it will hit a pin inside the stem and start leaking air. You know when you have the air hose nozzle properly applied when the leaking air stops. It takes some force to get the hose locked on, but once it is in place, you will be ready to increase the tire pressure.
Some air hoses are automatic, and will release air in your tire once you have it on the tire's valve stem. Other air hoses have handles and require you to squeeze them to activate the air. It is important to have your gauge as you fill the tire, taking the hose off somewhat frequently to check the pressure. It is extremely important not to over-inflate your tires. You can avoid this by using small bursts of air between your checks.
As you increase the PSI and keep checking it, you will get a feel for how much air you are putting into the tire, and how much more you need. Once you get close to your recommended PSI, use less air, and keep going until you are at the right level. Once you have the tires properly inflated, replace the stem caps by screwing them back on. Do not over-screw them, as they will break on the top.
Tire stem caps are important to keep your tire valve stems clean and undamaged. Tire pressure should be checked weekly, or every other week at least. Particularly with severe weather and temperature swings, tire pressure on the nicest tires with the nicest cars can still fluctuate, and must be monitored and maintained regularly for safe and fuel-efficient driving. How To Put On Tire Chains Some motorists may not be familiar with them, but tire chains for snowy, icy, and steep mountainous roads are common in some states.
In some cases, particularly in the steep mountain passes of the Rockies, the Sierra Nevadas, and the Cascades, tire chains are even required at certain points. Even drivers who are familiar with snowy and icy driving conditions must have tire chains to maintain safe control on mountain roads and highways.
The grade of mountain inclines and declines combined with snow and ice can leave the biggest four-wheel-drive or the most nimble front-wheel-drive vehicle with little road control. Putting tire chains on your vehicle is not the most simple task, but it is sometimes required to keep you rolling, and once you have installed snow chains for a first time, you will be ready to chain up and keep on driving through the snowy mountains, every time.
When obtaining your tire chains, you must first make sure they will fit your tires. Most tire chain packaging has a guide that indicates which tires it fits. Stores and markets where chains are sold also have guides, or employees who can help you get the right size. Never try to attempt to use chains that are too large or too small for the tire, as this could result in dangerous driving and damage to your car.
Dry Run The same way it is a good idea to test the braking and steering on a snowy or slippery road, you should test putting on the tire chains before you reach the mountain roads where they may be required. Pick an open stretch of street, or a vacant parking lot. Take the chains out of their packaging or case, and untangle all of the links so they are hanging free in a web shape.
Place the two separated chains by the tires to which you will apply them. For a front-wheel-drive vehicle, the chains should go on the front two tires.
For rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the chains should be applied to the rear two wheels. Some trucks and extreme conditions may call for tire chains on all four wheels, which is fine, but make sure you put the chains on the right tires when you only have two. With the car parked, parking brake engaged, and car in gear, place the chain onto the tire, holding it from the top and ensuring that it is evenly placed over the wheel.
Obviously, the bottom part of the chain cannot cover that portion of tire that is touching the road. Just fit the rest of the chain onto the wheel as best you can.
Some chains have rings that go on the inside of the wheel, and help guide the chains into place. For these ring-type chains, be sure the open connection is on the bottom of the wheel. Once you place the chains on and the ring is going around the inside of the wheel, you can connect the bottom of the ring. This usually requires you to get right down under the car by the tire.
You may need to change position to get the best angle on the connection.
Once the chain is evenly and securely on the three-quarters of the wheel that is not touching the road, repeat the process on the other side. When both chains are on, check to make sure the front of the car is clear, and drive forward a few feet.
You only need to drive far enough to expose the rest of the wheels that were previously touching the ground. Put the car in gear or in park, engage the parking brake, and get out of the vehicle again. Now you can secure the chains squarely on the remaining wheel surfaces.
Next, tighten the chains by using a closer link on the chains. Now you are ready to drive, but only for a little bit. After you have driven 50 to feet, you must get out and re-tighten the chains, which will likely have some slack from evening out across the tires. Don't be alarmed by the bumpy ride. After all, you are driving with chains on your tires.
For your practice run with the tire chains, you will likely be on a dry road, so limit the driving, but this is a good chance to get to know how they feel and how the car rides with the chains on. Taking the chains off is much easier, once you have disconnected the inside rings or chains. This once again requires you to get right down to the lower inside of the wheel. However, once the inside ring or chain is disconnected, you can't simply pull the chains off. The chains will not disconnect on the bottom, where the tire is resting on the ground.
Simply lay the chains to the side of the tires as flat as possible, making sure that they are not still around the wheel or axle of the vehicle. Then you will drive forward a few feet, enough to get the car's tires clear from the chains.
When putting the chains back in a bag or packaging, try to make sure they are not tangled together, and make sure they are dry. Mountain Driving The reason it is often good to have practice putting on chains and knowing what you are doing is the adverse conditions in which you may have to repeat the task.
Chains are required on snowy, icy, or possibly slick mountain roads and passes, where rain, snow, sleet, and wind can be formidable. This highlights the need for good gear to put your chains on. Don't depend on your ski wear or other clothing you plan on wearing much, unless you don't mind if it's wet, dirty, or both.
The best gear for putting on tire chains is heavy, waterproof wear, such as rain gear. Waterproof pants are important because you will have to kneel down to install and take off the chains. Another good thing to have is gloves, but they should not be bulky ski gloves, and mittens won't do you any good under your car's wheel well.
Garden gloves work well because they provide Repeat the same procedures as described above in "Dry Run" to get your chains installed. Make sure you have enough space to work on all sides of the vehicle safely. Mountain passes typically have chain-up turnouts with signs to let you know when to put your chains on, and then take them off again.
Follow the posted signs and requirements, and don't get caught without chains, as there can be fines in addition to the difficult driving you might face.
For more details and some helpful diagrams, check out the National Association of Chain Manufacturers' informative document, Tire Chain Specifications. Is your car hemming and hawing more than a politician in the Iowa primaries? Does it hesitate, stall, or lag when you put the petal to the metal? If these symptoms are new, a clogged fuel filter is the likely culprit. Fuel filters become obstructed due to dirt or rust in the fuel tank, and by debris from the normal deterioration of the fuel line.
The fuel filter keeps contaminants out of your vehicle's engine. All fuel filters need occasional changing. Some cars tell you how often, but most don't.
It needs to be replaced yearly, especially if your car's got a lot of miles; if you use cheap gas or gas with alcohol in it; drive on a lot of gravel; or do anything else that might help clog things up.
Nobody gets off easy. Even if you have a new car with a "lifetime" filter, it'll still need to be replaced once in a while, at least every 30, miles. Further, you can't tell from looking that a filter's clogged. Blow through it; if that's hard to do, then it needs to be replaced. Safety Disclaimer This article provides a basic description of the process of changing a fuel filter. It doesn't cover every kind of car or situation, so check out your vehicle's service manual.
First, fuel is flammable. Take these precautions to prevent turning everybody into human charcoal: Be sure to handle the old fuel filter carefully, as it will still contain a small amount of fuel. Locating the Fuel Filter Look at your manual to find your fuel filter, then get these things ready: Changing the Fuel Filter The first steps in replacing your fuel filter depend on the type of fuel pump.
This drains the fuel in the line and relieves the higher fuel pressure in an electric fuel system. If the line is not drained, the pressurized fuel will spray into the engine compartment, creating a potential hazard. Non-Electric Fuel Pump For a non-electric fuel pump system, you will not be able to run out the fuel; however, the pressure in the fuel line will be much lower than that of an electric fuel pump system.
Because Just be sure to have your shop rags handy. Out with the Old, In with the New If the filter is underneath the vehicle, be sure to take proper precautions before going under the vehicle. Either use ramps approved for the weight of your vehicle, or use floor jacks and stands. Always set the parking brake and use wheel chocks. Never get under a vehicle which is supported by jacks alone. Always use jack stands to support the vehicle.
Here are the steps to remove the old fuel filter and replace it with the new fuel filter: Your filter may utilize a "quick connect" system. If you are unsure of the operation of this system, you should find out the proper way to remove the filter and if there are any special tools necessary. Check the filter to make sure it is facing the right direction. Do not leave the old filter or any gasoline-soaked rags out once you have reconnected the battery.
It may take more that one try as the filter fills up with fuel. Congratulations, you've just changed your fuel filter! Your vehicle's performance should increase substantially.
However, if you continue to experience problems with acceleration, contact a professional mechanic. How To Change Your Oil In this fast-paced world of endless work and little play, the last thing most people think about is crawling under the car and changing their vehicle's oil.
After all, there are Grease Monkeys and Jiffy Lubes on just about every corner, not to mention all the garages and big-box chains who can do the job for you. Of course, you may get grimy, so if you have an aversion to getting your hands dirty, head out to a garage.
If you're ready to get under the car and take care of business, then read on. When to Change the Oil Check your vehicle owner's manual and see what the manufacturer recommends. Most will tell you to make the change once every 3, to 7, miles, so this is a pretty good leeway.
Your dad may tell you something completely different. Then there is the opinion of the mechanic at the local garage, who will also throw out a number and then offer to change it for you each time. The general rule of thumb, especially if you want to keep your vehicle in tip-top condition, is to change the oil every 3, miles. Check your vehicle owner's manual for the engine oil capacity with filter and the proper viscosity. However, most vehicles have enough of a gap to easily reach the oil pan.
Some oil filters are accessed via the underside of the vehicle. In these cases, propping the vehicle may be a better option. Changing the Oil 1. Make sure your vehicle is parked on a flat surface and not at an angle. Run the engine for several minutes to heat the oil before draining. Shut off the engine before proceeding. If using ramps, drive the vehicle onto the ramps. If using a jack and jack stands, raise the vehicle with the jack and lower it onto the stands.
Never go under a vehicle unless it is supported by quality jack stands or drive-on ramps. Never go under a vehicle supported by drive-on ramps unless both of the non-ramped wheels the ones which remain on the ground are chocked. Blocks of wood of sufficient size suffice for this purpose; simply place them behind the tires.
When using a jack, take care to lift the vehicle from a proper lifting point. If you're unsure where to place the jack, consider having just one more oil change done by a mechanic.
When the vehicle is on the service hoist, ask if the mechanic would point out the proper lifting points on your vehicle. Always wear appropriate eye protection when working under the vehicle. Components under the vehicle will be hot. Use caution, especially when working near the exhaust system. The engine oil pan should be easy to identify. It's large and sags down a bit from the engine area.
There will be a drain plug on the bottom edge. Once you find the engine oil pan and locate the drain plug, slip the drain pan below. Unscrew the drain plug with the proper size box end wrench.
The oil rushing from the drain most likely will drive the drain plug into the drain pan. Remember, the oil will be hot, so it is best to just let the bolt fall into the drain pan rather than try to yank it away once it comes free.
This will save your hands from getting burned and gooey. It will take several minutes for the oil to drain.
A metal drain plug washer that is no longer flat should be replaced. A rubber drain plug washer that is damaged or deteriorated should be replaced. Reinstall the drain plug into the oil pan. Do not over tighten. Find the oil filter. Adjust the drain pan to catch the oil that will fall from the filter once it's removed from the engine.
Attach the filter wrench tightly around the filter and rotate counter clockwise to remove. You may find yourself in a battle trying to remove the filter and even crush the body. Simply make sure the wrench grip is solid and try for that first release. Once you achieve that, the filter should twist right off. The filter gasket should come off with the filter. If it didn't, remove the filter gasket from the filter mounting area.
Wipe the filter mounting area with a clean rag. Set the old filter off to the side and swab the housing area with the rag until it's free of old oil.
You're now ready to install the new filter. Coat the filter gasket with clean oil. Screw it in, taking caution not to go to the extreme when tightening. The tightening instructions will be printed on most filters. At this point, the hard part is over. Now locate the lubricant depository, usually marked by a cap noted appropriately: Open it and pour in the required amount of oil. Replace the cap upon completion and wipe up any excess oil. Start the vehicle and do a quick check on all of the components to seek out any leaks.
With the engine running, verify there is no engine oil leaking from the filter or from the drain plug. Shut off the engine and check engine oil level. Now you're ready to clean up. Used motor oil is classified as hazardous waste and must be disposed of in accordance with all applicable laws.
Using a funnel, carefully pour the used oil from the drain pan into a leak proof container. Take the old oil to your local garage or auto parts store for disposal. Perhaps you've noticed your headlights dimming while driving, or maybe you have an ongoing problem with a perfectly good battery that keeps running out of power, even after you've had it recharged a time or two.
Or your battery light flickers on at low RPMs, or is on all of the time. These are all signs that your alternator is busted. Beginners Beware Changing an alternator at home should only be undertaken by someone with mechanical skills.
If you've never worked on a vehicle before, this might not be the best "first job" for you. Read all the steps and decide whether you are comfortable with this repair before you undertake it. This device plugs into your cigarette lighter and saves all your computerized PINs and codes, including your engine settings as well as your stereo presets so you don't have to reenter any information.
The alternator is not a "stock" type of part on a vehicle. The location, parts, tools, and skills needed to change it differ from vehicle to vehicle.
Be sure you're using the right tools for your case, to prevent injury to yourself or to your car. Although it seems unnecessary to get new hoses and belts just because you've removed them to get to the alternator, you should. When you take these off, the hose and belt are likely to become stretched or damaged in ways you can't see. It's a safety measure, and doing so will cut down on damage or premature belt and hose wear. Removing the Old Alternator If you have another way to get to the auto parts store, remove the old alternator from your vehicle first.
Follow these steps to accomplish this removal: Plug in your memory saver, if you have one. Remove the vehicle's negative battery cable. Remove the serpentine belt, or alternator belt. This is many times the most difficult part of the task. Remove any necessary parts to reach the alternator. Discard all belts or hoses removed in this process. Disconnect all of the electrical connections wires from the alternator.
Disconnect and discard the alternator belt. Remove any mounting bolts that hold the alternator in place.
Remove the alternator from the engine compartment. What About the New Alternator? Now, take the old alternator to the auto parts shop and purchase the new alternator. It will be less expensive if you take the worn alternator and trade it in on the new one.
If you do not provide the old part, most auto parts stores will add an additional fee to the listed price of a part such as an alternator. This is legal, and is known as a "core charge" in the industry. However, the core charge is refundable with your old alternator and receipt. Installing the New Alternator 1. Set the alternator back in place in the engine compartment. Page 39 - One Touch System - v8. Page 40 Page 41 - One Touch System - v8. Honda Odyssey Navigation Manual pages.
With gpscape and power steering, fourtrax foreman rubicon pages. Your Ride. Hwy 13 Savage, MN www. Page 3 onda dySSey inivan - ervice anual January Page 4: Page 6: Kneeler Right rear of van below tire cover The Kneeler is an actuator that is connected to the rear axle on the Remote Programming passengers side of the van. Its Switch function is to pull the van closer to the ground so that there is less of an Page Check door track for any debris and remove.
Located on the drivers left dash. Page 25 OTC 8. Kneeler Troubleshooting OFF position and the kneeler ratchets. Kneeler moves up and down but Master link is broken. Replace master link. Step 3 Step 4 2 screws for tire cover A Remove spare tire cover. A Flip up the right side rear sofa seat. The power toggle switch is on the OTC board. Ensure the connections on the back of the OTC board are tight. Check the OTC main fuse 40 amp located near the vehicles main battery.
One Touch System - V8.