First of all, thanks for checking out my 6-Week Power Endurance Climbing. Training Program! conditioning, shoulder girdle work, and core work. You'll follow a. climbing has led to a correlative demand for training solutions. Conditioning professionals must now consider more carefully the physical. conditioning phase which can equally increase performance in climbing: Conditioning the (Available as a pdf from the MCofS website Coaching pages ).
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management, flexibility, overall conditioning and climbing specific strength .. soundofheaven.info soundofheaven.info b. 9b. 12b . Program overview: Learn climbing skills, refine technique, develop mental skills, improve body composition & general conditioning, increase. months of regular gym climbing, but I suffered 3. • serious Elite climbers can still climb moderate routes . Regular non-climbing general conditioning exercise.
Warm-Up 1: I have also used a squat cage with the big bar set across the cage and my ice tool hooked over the bar. If you go through phases 1 and 2, your physical limits will progress much further than if you skip straight to the muscular endurance workouts. Climbing during the Muscular Endurance Period: The reasons behind these time frames lie in our human physiology and how we adapt to exercise and training stress.
P90X, for example, is muscular endurance training misunderstood and misused. Core training, like all training, needs to follow the principles of continuity between workouts, a gradual increase in challenge, and modulation. Upper-body strength, pulling yourself up and holding yourself up, is the most obviously important aspect of ice climbing fitness. Besides the required continuity between workouts, gradual increase in challenge, and stress modulation, you need to do two things: First, develop a high level of maximal strength in your arms and shoulders.
Second, develop endurance in a strength-sense of the word. Too many people, including a younger me, started with muscular endurance. This common approach is backwards. Instead, you need to approach strength development in three phases:. If you go through phases 1 and 2, your physical limits will progress much further than if you skip straight to the muscular endurance workouts.
The good news is that you can cycle back and forth between phases 2 and 3 many times, at least two or three times, before needing to go back and address the fundamental conditioning of phase 1. That means that you can cycle max strength periods and muscular endurance periods for 32—40 weeks. Every athlete needs to return to fundamental conditioning work at least once a year.
The highest level professionals do this, and you should too. Failing to recognize this fact results in injuries.
To put it another way, there is no such thing as overtraining, only under-recovering. There is one important caveat: Some people, most commonly teenagers and older athletes who have become de-trained, need to put on muscle mass.
In this case, a muscle-mass-building cycle, also known as hypertrophy, is in order. These are simple to plan and execute as they involve lifting or pulling heavy weights for enough reps to reach muscular failure usually 8— Climbers have to carry all those heavy muscle fibers around, so we want to keep them to a minimum.
Here I detail the three crucial workout phases and how you should progress through them to maximize your ice and mixed climbing fitness. The author climbing in Slovenia. Marko Prezelj Photo. This first phase, the conditioning or transition period, encompasses core work, general strength training, and climbing. It should constitute the first eight weeks of your training, no matter how many weeks you have until you want to peak. Core Training for Ice Climbing: Start with 1x through.
Go to this link to download a PDF of these exercises. Go to this link to watch the video and follow along. General Strength: Start with one lap of the following circuit, doing the exercises as ordered, 10 reps of each exercise. On top of this, I recommend climbing, ideally outside, but a climbing gym may be substituted.
You can reorganize that schedule to climb on weekdays as well, just respect the minimum one day off nothing resembling strength training, including manual labor in between those two workouts and two climbing days. For most people this means two gym-based strength training days plus one climbing day per week. Everyone needs at least one full rest day per week. Keep in mind that manual labor, and I would include most forms of climbing guiding in this category, is not restful and does not count as rest.
During this period your rock climbing days should be focused on volume.
Week 1: Respect the Rest: It is important to respect the rest intervals between the workouts. You can move the training days around on the weekly calendar, but space the workouts as I have laid them out above.
Trust the Process: Remember what I said about motivation at the beginning of this article? Lock-off training with both hands on one tool. This period lasts as long as you have time for: Ice Climbing Max Strength Workout: First, a note on weight: You can estimate your 1RM by doing a given exercise to failure with a weight you think you can handle for 4—12 reps. Then use a 1RM calculator such as this one. In that calculator you will enter the weight lifted and the number of repetitions done, and it will calculate your 1RM.
This weight should allow you to do the exercises without reaching muscular failure or exhaustion.
In fact, these workouts should leave you feeling somewhat exhilarated and should have a restorative effect. You will do the exercises as couplets. A couplet is a pair of two exercises.
In this case I recommend you do one upper-body exercise and one for core. Then you move to the second couplet, in this case incline pull-ups and weighted hanging leg raises. Incline Pull-ups: These are best done on gymnastic rings. I have also used a squat cage with the big bar set across the cage and my ice tool hooked over the bar.
You can vary the difficulty of incline pull-ups by varying where you put your feet, the starting angle of your torso, and what you put your feet on try a large ball for an additional challenge. Ice Axe Hangs: Do 4 sets of one-armed, second hangs.
Use enough weight that you can only hang a max of 12—15 seconds. Rest 1 minute between hangs.
Keep your shoulder activated and tense throughout the hang. Weighted Hanging Leg Raises: Hang from your tools or the bar. Hook your toes into a kettle-bell, and lift your knees as high and tight to your chest as you can.
You can also use ankle weights or wear boots. Figure 4 Couplet: You can learn how to adapt this climbing movement to be a training exercise here. To add weight, if needed, simply hold a dumbbell in your free hand. Weighted Lock-offs: Lock off on one tool and hang there, holding a dumbbell in your free hand. Weighted Toe Raises: Put your climbing boots on it is important to do this with a rigid-sole boot and do this one leg at a time.
For another eight weeks, add this workout into your program once every 10 days. This is a difficult, and also very powerful, workout. Note that you should not cycle through more than two muscular endurance periods [[in a season?
In a row? During a muscular endurance period, I recommend the following schedule:. Warm-Up 1: Dynamic stretches simply mean moving your joints and limbs through their full range of motion. Be creative. Warm-Up 2: Pace yourself.
The idea is not to do this as fast as you can but to maintain quality and form throughout each movement. The training effect comes from the volume of work done, so if you blow up halfway through by going too hard, you will not get the desired endurance effect.
Static Lock-off x 60 seconds. Hang on your ice tools with your chin as high as you can manage for 60 seconds. Two-armed for most or one-armed for the advanced. Hanging Windshield Wiper x 5 each side. If this is too hard, do a weighted windshield wiper wear boots or grip a soft weight, like a small medicine ball, between your feet. If you want a glimpse into how the pros train, the resources in this final chapter are for you.
Take all their advice with a grain of salt, though. They are the best in the world and training exactly as they train is likely too much for us mere mortals. Photo Credit: Zlatko Najdenovski. Bouldering Training The Complete Guide Updated for !
About the Author: Alex Beale. Alex is the owner and editor of 99Boulders. He's been climbing since and testing and reviewing outdoor gear since His work has appeared in top climbing sites such as 8a.