“Matt Scarpino's Designing Circuit Boards with EAGLE is a great resource for circuit boards, and you can really tell that he's been using EAGLE for 10 years. In this tutorial we'll cover every step in EAGLE PCB design: from placing parts, to routing them, to generating gerber files to send to a fab house. We'll also go. Autodesk EAGLE is an electronic design automation (EDA) software. Enabling printed circuit board (PCB) designers to seamlessly connect schematic diagrams, .
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“Matt Scarpino's Designing Circuit Boards with EAGLE is a great resource for I've included the schematic's PDF in the Ch4 folder in this book's archive, along. start the tutorial take 5 minutes to go through the Cadsoft EAGLE Guided tour, to get an This guide assumes that you are designing a two-sided PCB with. PCB introduction. • CadSoft EAGLE introduction. • Schematic design. • Board layout and routing. • CAM processor export. • DFM. • Fabrication. • Assembly. 2.
Or leave them as is Also note that the autorouter obeys the board dimension lines, so if you haven't moved them close to your components, you might have traces travel all over the board. More by the author: I cannot believe how bad this program is made. Sir, I motivated from you then decided to start my blog http: It doesn't have to be perfect at this point; we're mostly looking for a better view for the next steps.
The first thing we want to do is move at least some components into the legal board area where we can work with them. If you have a particularly large board with many components, you might want to do this a section at a time.
For this sample board, we have plenty of room and we can move them all at once, using the group-move feature. Select the GROUP icon, then click and drag to make a rectangle that goes all the way around the components. Use the ZOOM button to tighter the view. The full legal side of the board is bigger than we need. Shrink the outline by using the MOVE tool.
Click on the center of the top horizontal line which selects the whole line instead of an endpoint and move it down, Then click on the center of the rightmost vertical line and move it leftward. Clicking near the center of a line moves the whole line.
Clicking near a vertice moves only the point. It doesn't have to be perfect at this point; we're mostly looking for a better view for the next steps. Oh yeah - click the zoom button to re-zoom the window on the smaller outline. Now we need to move the components to near where we want them on the final board. OR we want to move them to sensible places that will make the placement of traces easier.
In general, you can start by placing the components similar to how they appear on the schematic. This breaks down when a chip has multiple gates, or the diagram in the schematic symbol has vastly different pinn placement than the actual chip, but it's a good place to start for discreets and simple components.
The worst that will happen is that you'll have a layout that makes sense, even if it doesn't route well In this case, I put the power output transistotrs near lamps that they're associated with, and I looked on the web for a layout that would work well for the longest time, I tried to do boards with the timing cap placed near the timing resistors, and I always needed a jumper.
One way to get hints on part placement is to look at some significant signals to see whether they have nice straight paths, or whether they zigzag all over the board. The way things are now, I have nice straight connections from the transistors to the lamps, but if I type "show gnd" in the command line, I see that this is at the expense of making the ground signal zigzag.
So I swap the transistors because GND is more important to have straight. This ends up putting the transistors near the supplies that they switch, rather than near the lamps that they switch to, so that still makes sense from a circuit point of view too. After the rest of the components are placed in ok-looking relative locations, I can squeeze them together again manually, moving them one at a time; no magic command for this!
Since we're hobbyists, we want to make our board with wide traces and big spaces see https: Or you can modify values manually and individually, of course. Or leave them as is You can see how the design rule change has already modified the board. Pads are bigger, and they're all round. You'll also notice that one of the resistors is set as a non-vertical package, unlike the rest.
This was probably an error in the schematic entry, and it didn't matter when all we had was the schematic. Now that we are making the board, we want to change the package as appropriate.
Now we'll see if the autorouter can do some of the work for us. The EAGLE autorouter isn't the best in the world, but even when it does a "bad" job, it will give us some general hints on how things need to look, or where the trouble spots are. The default parameters will produce a double sided board, and we want to at least TRY to make a single-sided board, so the first thing to do is set the preferred direction for the TOP layer to NA Not Applicable.
The other thing you may need to change is the routing grid. This defaults to the same default grid as the board layout editor in general: Since this particular board has big parts, and we haven't moved any off the default grid, we're ok with that value.
If you have SMT components or have moved things around on a finer grid, you might have pads that are not on the touing grid, which the autorouter doesn't like much "unreachable pad", etc You can make the grid very small, but it will take longer. IMO, it's better to start with a coarse grid and halve it each time it looks like routes fail because the grid is too large. Also note that the autorouter obeys the board dimension lines, so if you haven't moved them close to your components, you might have traces travel all over the board.
Or if you've moved the outline too close to the pads, you may have prevented traces from going places they need to go.
The autorouter did a pretty nice job here. There's only one trace left. There are a couple of ways we could route this signal manually, including some snakey routes between transistor pins that the autorouter didn't use because of the design rules we specified. This is a relatively high current trace, and I decided that I won't manually violate the design rules either.
Select the ROUTE tool and click on an endpoint of an unrouted yellow airwire, and you can position a trace pretty much anywhere you want, selecting width, layer, and type of bend from the menu bar as you go along.
This is shown in the succession of pictures in this step.
On multi-layer boards, it's common to have entire layers mostly dedicated to such a power plane. Even on a single layer board there are some advantages to doing something similar: There is an icon on the toolbar for drawing polygons, but it will create polygons associated with a new signal, and I find that when creating a polygon for an existing signal, it's easier to type the text form of the command in the text command area.
To create a polygon attached to a signal named 'gnd', type " poly gnd " By giving it a signal name in the command, the polygon will automatcailly be connected to that signal.
If you draw a polygon with the icon, you can connect it to a signal later by using the "name" command to rename the polygon. Now we'll repeat the process for the positive voltage. If we want the names of components to be legible on the top of the board transferred via toner transfer , or just to look good on printouts, they names and values probably have to be moved from their default locations.
Why is it called "smash"? I dunno! We can move some of the traces so they look neater, offer better clearance, etc.
Also, we shrink the board to its final size ny squishing the components together some more. Remember back in the schematic I mentioned that there were a couple of things that had been left out? You should be noticing them about now Expand your workflow with Fusion Autodesk is a leader in 3D design, engineering and entertainment software. All rights reserved. Worldwide Sites You have been detected as being from. PCB design made easy.
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Vibrant Community. I Need basic for electronics, which use for convert voltage and current My Email Id: It might be worth considering EasyEDA.
As an EDA tool it is much easier to learn than Eagle and offers much more capability without needing to pay for the extra functionality. I have been using it for a few years now and it really works well. There are quite few tutorials available for kicad. This professional development program provides an objective evaluation of core competencies in design, based on industry standards rather than specifications of just one company.
I want to design a digital printing device that prints on the walls or any base that we control on the computer. This information is very useful for me thank you so much I also want to design a circuit for my project can you explain me about Resistance please sir.
Your email address will not be published. Home About Blog Contact. Sounds hard? Starting with schematics Before you start drawing wires and stuff, you need to know what circuit you want to build. Start by drawing your schematic diagram into the software you have chosen. Things To Think About Will you put the circuit board in a box?
Related Articles: Learn how to use the Eagle autorouter. Learn how to draw a ground plane in Eagle. Comments I need to replace or repair a Jandy Pool Heater circuit board. Thank You, Denis Vollom. Hi Jane, can you give me the information about stencil drawing? Hi Samir, Stencil is the copper pad which need solder.
Maybe you can email to me. Dear Denis Vollom, How are you recently? Do you have any PCB project recently?
Best Regards Hebe. I am waiting for the reply!