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Shop Notes May-Jun - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online. Shop Notes May-Jun ShopNotes - Nov - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read ShopNotes volume - November Shop Notes May-Jun ShopNotespdf - Free download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online for free. Shop Notes May-Jun Uploaded by. clevesanders.
A tenon on one end fits into the foot. Flag for inappropriate content. Send change of address to: Then you can turn the blank face down to cut the plugs to width and free of the blank. Six countersunk holes are used to attach the cleats later. The first is a T-track installed in the fence face.
The stop block is sized to provide dust relief under it. I also drilled oversized holes in the mounting block that are used to attach it to the base later. Now set the mounting block on the base and butt the fence against it. For dust relief. Figures 4 and 5 show the specifics on building the fence. Locate and drill holes in the T-track groove and then fasten the fence to the mounting block.
The mounting block and fence base are identical in size. After making some test cuts. I cut a shallow notch on the bottom edge in the area that rides over the table saw Figure 4.
Before fastening the cleats to the sliding table flush with the saw table by adjusting the set screws. I cut a kerf on the bottom of the base for the aluminum index key Figure 4a.
Loosely attach the cleats until after the table is level and parallel. The middle layer is in two segments to form an open mortise. A pin at each end of the rail allows it to pivot slightly to account for uneven floors.
Adustable Height. This allows you to adjust the height of the rail to match your table saw. While the dado blade is installed on the saw. The outrigger features a pair of posts that ride in wide. Then once the glue dries. Or place it at the back of your saw to support a long board when ripping it. A tenon on one end fits into the foot. The outrigger you see above can be placed to the side of your saw to lend a hand when crosscutting.
Built-Up Feet. Supporting the end of a long board when crosscutting or ripping makes for a safer. I used a waxed spacer during glueup to form the mortise. Slotted Legs. Assemble the posts to the legs with the simple hardware shown in Figure 1.
At the drill press. For cutting sheet goods. Now you can put the outrigger to use. These pins can be found at the hardware store. When ripping. As I mentioned. The only thing to do to make the rail besides cut it to size is drill a hole at each end for the roll pins.
I also routed a slot to accommodate the hardware that is used for adjustment. For crosscutting. Step over to the band saw to cut the notch in the end of the post that houses the horizontal rail. Using the Outrigger. It starts with cutting the wide groove on the inside face for the sliding post. I ShopNotes. The legs play a key role in this adjustability. I happened to notice how much empty space there was between the stacks. The rack is made of dimensional lumber and plywood available at any home center.
As I searched for a board in my lumber rack a while ago. Most of the weight rests on the floor. There are deep. I decided that space could be put to much better use.
I used to have to tote unwieldy boards across the shop to rough cut them but now I can make those cuts on the spot. As you can see from the photo. The supports will safely hold a good-sized supply of lumber. Another nice feature is the addition of a worksurface with a builtin miter saw.
Each upright is made up of a solid wood stanchion and arms. After clamping them together. Now attach the arms with screws through the plates Figure 1a. Attached to these are several horizontal arms that support the lumber and provide a place for mounting some storage drawers. Measure for the locations of all the arms and mark across the edges using a square. I built mine so the top shelf was closest to the wall to minimize maneuvering a heavy assembly into place.
I started by planing all the stanchion and arm cores to uniform thickness. I laid all the stanchions on the floor so the ends were flush and clamped them together. The design of the lumber center is simple.
The arms consist of a lumber core sandwiched and glued between two plywood arm plates.! Then I cut the arm plates to size and glued them to the cores. I began by cutting the skins to size as shown in Figure 2. Note that there are no cleats in the second and third highest shelves. Now you can cut the cleats to size and attach them through the bottom shelf skins. This helps to locate the screws and hold them in place to get them started. The assembly is now rigid enough to lift in place.
I pre-drilled the holes in the skins and partially threaded in the screws to fasten them to the arms. But before you do. I started at the floor by laying a straight.! Fasten the lower shelf skins to the arms first. In addition to saving a lot of time. Heavy-duty construction lag screws are used to anchor the lumber center to the wall studs. Then locate the highest spot on the floor and drive one screw through the cleat into the wall at this point.
Drive screws through all the top shelf cleats and all the lower shelf cleats into the studs in the wall. I leveled the unit with shims under the stanchions as required Figure 4. I used 3" construction lag screws because they have s extra large heads and are less likely to pull through the wood refer to Sources on page Finish up by installing all the top shelf skins. You may also have to place shims behind the cleats and drive screws through them to plumb the rack back-tofront.
Setting the partially completed unit in place is definitely a two person job. You should use a shim anywhere there is a gap behind a screw. Fasten the Top Skins. I had to drive some of the fasteners at an angle because there was not enough room for my driver.
I found it was easiest to plumb the rack side-to-side first. Predrill the holes in the cleats. And once in place. You can learn about some other drill attachment options that will make it easier to drive fasteners in tight places in the Great Gear article found on page Now you can start filling your center with boards.
Clearance between the drawers and the shelves is generous. This also provides a place to bolt the saw down. The miter saw platform is the last component to put together. Simple to build rabbeted! Miter Saw Platform. Once I determined this measurement. I constructed the platform as shown in Figure 8. Start by cutting the fronts. Then drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Most miter saws will require you to build a platform to raise it to the level of the shelf surface.
This helps to keep the drawer boxes square when you fasten everything together. Then cut the rabbets on the fronts and backs as shown in Figure 7a. A notch is cut in each drawer front for a hand hold. Shiny zinc-plated hardware can be an eyesore.
The first look is also the easiest to create — plain. A little sanding with fine sandpaper or steel wool takes care of removing unwanted scratches. But for shop and garage projects.
A wire wheel mounted in a drill press abrades the coating in a short amount of time. The wrong hardware. You have two choices — elbow grease or chemistry. The proper selection of hardware enhances the look and creates another layer of detail.
Depending on the makeup of the wheel. But with a few steps. For furniture projects. Hardware adds the final touch to a project. To get to the bare steel.
The shape of utility hardware fits right in. Basic Bare Steel. Here are three looks to consider for your next project. The other option to remove the zinc coating is to use an acid solution to dissolve it. It reminds me of old.
The good news is you can upgrade the look of basic hardware without a lot of time or effort. This kind of hardware is inexpensive and has a shiny. I spend a lot of time finding a good fit. The photo above shows the first method. A quick buffing with steel wool gives it just the right appearance.
The first step is shown in the upper right photo. With these techniques. Playing With Fire. Milder citric acid is available. I brush on a coat of oil-based finish. To Protect or Not.
You could use the hardware as is. Of course. I like to spray on a couple coats of satin lacquer. Two coats will give you the co coverage and protection you need.
It just works a little more slowly. Keep an eye on the hardware and remove it when it has the look you want. And here you can have a little fun. Buff out the surface once it cools and dries.
Start with primer p Two coats ats of colorr complete ete the new w lookk ShopNotes. I like to degrease and clean the hardware with lacquer thinner. Gun Metal Finish. In order to remove the acid. Take a look at the box below to learn more. For the next step of the process. Take it easy here. The result is a dull. To prevent rust and lock in the look. Get out a torch and pass a flame back and forth across the hardware. To avoid an overdone.
Getting a good end result sult involves a few key steps. After applying a coat of oilbased finish. The uncoated steel is the starting point for creating a layered. Diluted muriatic acid will remove the zinc plating from a hinge in just a few minutes.
Muriatic acid is commonly available at hardware stores and home centers. I rinse the hardware thoroughly and dry if off. To mix up the acid. Then spray on a coat at of primer. Heating with a torch creates a muted. After ripping the first bevel. Adjust the drill press fence to locate the holes in the blank.
I began by making a few extralong. A push block keeps your hands safely away from the blade. The fixture starts with a hardboard base. On top of that. To drill the series of holes for storing router bits. Creating the angled bit racks for the router cabinet on page 34 only requires following a few easy steps. I made the fixture you see in the left drawings. One of the fences is wider and beveled along one edge. I used an auxiliary fence on the miter gauge. Finish up by drilling a pair of countersunk screw holes for attaching each rack to the cabinet door.
A stop block clamped to the fence guarantees the racks are the same length. It holds the rack at the proper angle so that the bit holes are drilled square to the beveled face. With the bevels cut. And there are a couple of tricks involved with drilling the router bit and mounting holes.
With this fence glued to the hardboard. I glued two pieces of plywood to act as fences.
Rip the Bevels. Then you can turn the blank face down to cut the plugs to width and free of the blank. That still leaves the plugs extra long. The challenge is cutting the small plugs for a snug fit. I drive a small brad at the mark and nip off the head Figures 1a and 1b.
The pins are covered by hardwood plugs so the mechanism is virtually invisible. But first. Cutting a series of kerfs on the edges defines the thickness of the plugs. Punch one end of the workpiece and place it on the brad. Aligning Deep Holes The article on page 42 shows how to drill an accurate hole through the center of a long piece of wood. That length comes in handy while shaping the end to match the rounded recess left by the router bit. In order to align the centers on a drill press.
This is easy to do on a lathe. At this point. Then chuck the end of a length of straight metal rod in the drill press. You need to file and sand the plug to match the roundover. Use a handscrew to hold it steady while you drill Figure 2. Take note that the wide dado for the divider is stopped.
The table saw works fine for cutting parts to size. One of the few challenges of building this cabinet is cutting the large sides to size. SIDE 11! The Side View drawing in the left margin has all the details. It takes up less than three square feet of floor space. The other joinery step is cutting a groove along the rear edge ShopNotes No. Over at the table saw.
Just be sure to leave a straight factory edge on each blank. A good approach is to use a circular saw to cut more manageable but still oversize blanks from a sheet of plywood.
A straightedge guide clamped to the parts guides the router for accurate cuts. I avoided wrestling with the parts by cutting the rabbet and dadoes for the top. Big Parts. I used a chisel to square up the end after routing. Still not convinced? With plenty of storage and a built-in router table. Solid Joinery. The towers are made from plywood and joined with dadoes and rabbets Figures 2c and 2d. This creates two pockets to slip the backs into place.
Wide hardwood edging provides extra stiffness. The cleat is glued to the lower edge of the top. This creates a rigid mounting surface for the router table.
Figure 1a shows that the divider is made up of two layers of plywood. As you put on the squeeze. The lower part of the case holds two storage towers. Add Some Storage. The reason is that I added a hardwood cleat at the top to secure the cabinet to the wall.
And there are grooves on the upper and lower faces for the back panels. This works well at the table saw. Cap it off with the other side. The bottom has a groove cut in it. The sides are joined by the top. The space between them is for the router when the table is stored.
Inside the cabinet. Add the bottom. I waited until the case was dry before adding the toe kick at the bottom Figure 1. This gives the top a smooth. Then wrap it up by adding doors and a few handy bit racks.
The tabletop is attached to the thick divider with a continuous hinge at the back. It consists of two layers of plywood that are glued together. All in all. From here on. This involves making the table and a fence. The construction of the tabletop is shown in Figure 3. In front. BRACE 3! The Tabletop.
I also applied plastic laminate to the top face. A pair of T-tracks recessed in the top allow you to attach the fence or other accessories. The router is mounted to an phenolic insert plate. Insert Plate. Take your time and cut as close to the line as you can. Use the plate as a gauge for sanding and smoothing the edge. Magnetic catches keep them closed. A pair of braces near the ends adds stiffness to the face and keep it square.
The first is a T-track installed in the fence face. The Doors. Triangular blocks in the middle do the same and provide a mounting surface for the dust port. A couple dowels are installed in the bottom face Figures 3 and 3b.
Then you can load it up. To keep your collection close at hand. Bit Racks. It needs to line up with the dowels in the underside of the table. So I used an insert plate and leveler system that allows the insert plate to be screwed in place. The doors are about as no-fuss as you can get.
Then drill a starter hole and cut out the waste with a jig saw. This is shown in Figure 4c. The fence is an L-shaped assembly made from hardwood.
Start by tracing the insert plate on the tabletop. The design in Figure 4 gets the job done with a few extras to boot.
No-Nonsense Fence. A good fence is essential for accurate cuts. The other add-on is a dust port. Table Support. Shop Short Cuts on page 32 has the details for making them. The only thing left to do is to drill a hole in the top edge of each lower door. These are used to lock the tabletop to the lower doors for use. Aim for a nice slip fit without any play.
Once you set the cabinet in place.
And as I mentioned earlier. My first bevel gauge was an inexpensive one I bought at a home center. A gauge like this works okay as far as setting angles. How They Work.
A bevel gauge. For just a few dollars. The gauges shown below fit the lower to middle range of that spectrum. For all that it can do. When you set the blade at an angle. Bevel gauges have been around for hundreds of years. What to Look For. The steel blade is locked into position with a simple bolt.
I have a couple of antique gauges that work as well now as they Cam secures blade position did when they were new.
And they can be used to set up for drilling angled holes and making bevel cuts on the table saw. The blade is slotted to allow it to extend on both sides of the body. It has two main parts — a body and an adjustable blade.
The blade stores within the body when not in use. These gauges are typically made with either a wood or plastic body. And there are times ShopNotes No. A slight bump can knock it out of position. But there are a couple of issues. You can seee examples of these improved d designs on the opposite page. Not surprisingly. Blade Clamp. Cam Lock.
Instead of a conventional body and blade. Improved Designs. It divides the current angle reading in two. The Veritas Bevel Setter features an adjustable fence that can be aligned with a line etched on the blade. Another type of clamping mechanism uses a threaded rod assembly. Press down on the lever to o lock the blade in position. But they all require some method to set the proper angle. The box below shows a couple of options. To find out where you can buy a bevel gauge for your shop.
Tightening the rod causes the washer to squeeze the blade.
The Shinwa gauge locks from the tail end of the body. Just make sure to treat it like you would any fine tool. The General bevel gauge is accurate to 0. The General protractor is another great option. Its plastic body houses the battery and electronics. Align the blade on the bevel gauge with the fence. As you tighten the rod. Release thee blade by simply lifting up on thee lever.
For setting up tools for angled cuts. The benefit of a digital gauge is that you can set the angle without using a protractor. Digital Technology. Its fine markings and index mark make it easy to find or set an angle accurately.
Two examples from General Tools and Wixey are shown above. This means the blade is less likely to lose its position in spite of the occasional bump. The Veritas gaugess feature a recessed cam lock to o secure the blade. It only takes a slight turn of the rod to really cinch the blade securely. Magnetic arms Conventional style blade Wixey The Wixey digital protractor is accurate to 0. I like to hang mine near my workbench to keep it from getting nicked and banged around. There are a couple of benefitss to this design.
It never gets in the way. The knob does a good job of clamping the blade. For such a simple tool. Setting an accurate angle is easy with this simple protractor. I found itt worth the extra dollars to investt in a bevel gauge that addressess these two issues. These bits tend to take the path of least resistance. I got better results with a ship auger by modifying the tip.
A straight metal rod aligns the V-block with the pilot hole. In this instance. Because it has no point. To solve this problem. And the deeper the hole. It cut well in softwoods but not as well in hardwoods. The problem often occurs with a hole drilled into end grain. Start With Pilot Hole. Remove the V-block to complete the hole. Then grind the edge as shown in the drawing on the opposite page.
Drill as deep as possible with the V-block in place. Align the V-block with the pilot hole using a length of metal rod. Once the drill chuck hits the V-block. I make a V-block that lines up the bit with the hole and guides the bit as you drill. A drill press is still valuable for this operation. In these situations. Then glue the two halves back together to form a complete hole.
I set my drill to the low speed range. Keep the Bit Straight. A little paraffin wax rubbed in the channel before gluing it back together will make squeezeout easier to remove. You can rout a channel with a core box bit centered on each half following the steps on the right.
I do this with a shorter drill bit the same diameter as the ship auger I plan to use. Modify the Drill Bit. A drill press would seem to be the logical tool to use. Something else to watch for is glue squeezeout which can plug the hole and interfere with feeding a lamp cord.
To modify a ship auger. To drill the rest of the hole. Even with a nice. A drawback to this method is that it will create a visible glue line. The other challenge of drilling deep holes is feeding the bit straight as it drills. Following these simple techniques will vastly improve the results you achieve when performing this type of operation. A wire chase through a floor lamp post is a good example.
At low speed there will still be a lot of friction. Refer to Shop Shortcuts on page 32 for one method of aligning both ends of a long workpiece to ensure the hole goes straightthrough the center. Once the pilot hole is drilled. To help with this. This durable case is ideal for protecting and storing bits in the shop or on the job site. Like the case above. The foam insert that holds the bits is made of a softer foam.
I had no problem loading it up with router bits. The case you see above is sold by Rockler. The bits ne need to be stored in such a way to k keep them from bumping into one another. The case shown on the left from Eagle America provides similar benefits and features. Turn to Sources. The foam is cut with rows of X-shaped slits that snugly hold a router bit regardless of shank diameter. A couple of great gre solutions to these challenges aare shown in the photos above and at left.
Plastic Case. You ccan transport the case wherever you need and yo access eeasily the bits inside. Here are a few ways y to store them safely y while protecting their sharp cutting edges. Whether you own dozens of router bits or just a handful.
And this can lead to cchipped cutting edges. The lid of the case has a soft foam liner that compresses against the bits when the lid is closed. The bit holders are mounted with a screw to create a custom storage solution. You can simply hang the bit racks on pegboard hooks. The cabinet is designed to be wallllmounted. The plastic holders are a friction fit with the router bit shank. As you can see.
You can mount the rack to a wall or stand. Sturdy steel Stu construction and an array of holes make it easy to store bits on a benchtop or router table stand.
But if your router bit collection on has gotten out of hand like mine has. They provide the ulimate in flexibility. Metal Rack. These plastic holders from Lee Valley make it quick and easy to design a custom storage solution. The one you see ee at right is sold by MLCS. The foam-lined lid will keep all your bits itss in place. The bit holders grip securely and can be positioned for optimal storage. Flexible Racks. The most versatile options for storing bits are the bit holders shown at right.
The metal rack from Rockler shown on the upper right makes it easy to find the bit you need. Compact Compac bit storage is no problem with this handy cabinet. For a more modular and flexible solution for storing router bits. The same setup works for ripping a number of parts from similarly sized blanks. As a woodworker. For a lot of woodworkers. You want it close to where the blade is cutting. Many projects start with ripping parts from wider boards.
But it should be ahead of the blade. The Setup. Rip It Right. No matter what kind of saw you have. The key to making this work is the location of the featherboard. There are two ways to use featherboards while ripping. Here the featherboard ensures consistency. By providing firm pressure against the rip fence. I attach a featherboard to the saw table when ripping long boards. The featherboard acts as a third hand to hold the workpiece tight against the fence while I control the back end.
In addition to cutting parts and joinery. It also counteracts any minor bowing along the length of the workpiece that could lead to uneven groove widths. The lower left photo on the facing page shows a common task — cutting grooves in stiles and rails. My aim here is to have consistently sized grooves no matter how many I need to cut. I take a three-pronged approach to make smooth cuts. A zero-clearance insert provides support and reduces chipout. These hold the thin stock down and minimize chatter.
I made an auxiliary rip fence that includes a T-track for attaching featherboards. You can see another way a double featherboard can make a tricky cut easier in the box below. Shaping Wood. Position the featherboards ahead of the blade. Joinery Done Right. With the workpiece held on edge. One example is creating a raised panel upper right photo. The photo shows everything you need. A featherboard attached to the rip fence above the blade keeps the workpiece fully engaged with the blade and creates a uniform depth of cut.
Double up a pair of featherboards to create a taller just like a featherboard to ensure a consistent cutting depth when creating rabbets. Cutting joinery at the table saw offers more opportunities to put a featherboard to work. The purpose of this is to prevent the thin stock from slipping under the rip fence and wedging. I used a pair of featherboards to help hold the workpiece upright against the fence. After drilling the hole.
The heavy-duty. DeWalt DrillDrive System. One of the biggest hassles of using a drill has to be switching between drill and Drill bit driver bits. The heart of the system is a drive sleeve with a hex socket that fits over a variety of drill bits in the Insty-Drive collection. The removable bit holder slips into the DrillDrive chuck. Instantly switch from drilling to driving with the Insty-Drive system by slipping the sleeve containing a driver bit over the drill bit.
You can find out where to get them in Sources on page Investing in one makes shop time more efficient. Countersinking and driving screws is one of the most common tasks in the workshop. These bits address the most common shop tasks and include ShopNotes No.
To use the DrillDrive. It houses a countersink drill on one end with a Phillips hex shank driver on the other end. Both bits are secured with set screws.
The DrillDrive system you see above allows you to perform both functions in a snap. Insty-Drive System. The DrillDrive comes individually sized for 6.
Part of the InstyDrive system. Sometimes the simple solutions are the best ones. Another system of products is the InstyDrive sold by Rockler photos at left. The clever accessories for your drill and driver you see here fall in the category. These keyless adapter chucks also make it easy to use one tool for both drilling and driving. The Snappy system includes hex adapters for standard drill bits and a quick chuck you can install in your drill.
That makes shop time more efficient. Each bit is held in a hex-shaped bit holder with a set screw. This small attachment with a locking handle chucks into your drill or driver for driving screws in tight spots.
The right-angle attachment near photo at right includes a handle that rotates and locks in a convenient position. Issues include I will send an updated invoice.
I am a one man operation. I will do my best to take care of YOU. At Your Service, Chitswood. In the event that an item is received. They appear complete but have NOT been checked page-by-page. Issue Possibly slight flaws. Vol 13 Issues 74, 75, 77, Magazine Lot. Vol 14 Issues , Vol 10 Issues 55, Smoke Free. They are in good pre-owned condition, and contain lots of great information for the novice or the seasoned woodworker.
Four magazines: We pride ourselves in the ability to get your treasure out to you as soon as possible! Issues are in excellent condition, and contain lots of great information for the novice or the seasoned woodworker. I have lots of great magazines of all kinds! Tool Cabinet: Get More Storage: From unused space.