soundofheaven.info March / April Meng AFV Modeller. AND GRAB . AFV Mar-April _AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/02/ Page AFV Modeller Issue 91 (November-December ) - Download as PDF File . pdf), Text File .txt) or read online. A magazine for AFV modellers. Download Meng AFV Modeller - July/August magazine for free from ebookbiz. To download click on the following link.
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These 48th- side projects and sometimes they turn into scale kits are not expensive, are easy to build within dioramas. A fantastic little figure which I stole from another Vignette with an M10 on it. The rubber tyres were distresed with some heavy-handed filing The round version is also inaccurate as the top of the block is not completely horizontal but slopes down before curving into the vertical face. I think a war wary veteran T may be in the frame soon! With the dark yellow areas masked off I started by airbrushing on my green tone, this was kept a deliberately light tone, using Vallejo German Cam Green heavily lightened with basic skin tone until a slightly minty green tone was achieved once weathered this would tone down to a more realistic colour. It was and still is oils.
Mark Neville email: Keith Smith email: AFV Mar-apr After several successive updates and upgrades, the latest version is the A7 and it still matches the level of the best and most advanced armoured combat vehicles in the world.
In total, more than 3, Leopard 2s have been manufactured and are currently used by Germany with different versions in service in 12 other European countries and several places outside of Europe.
The latest additions are basically an upgrade package for combat in urban environments consisting of additional composite armour plates on the sides of the turret and the side skirts. The A7 also features additional close-combat weapons; MG 40 grenade launcher, an additional 7.
The kit allows you to leave the suspension adaptable to the terrain allowing you a margin of manoeuvre in order to pose your Leopard in a scene. The kit has some very fine detail and finesse as can be seen here at the rear of the hull. The inclusion of some photoetched parts offers a great detail out of the box project.
With the help of a jig provided with the kit I was able to position the chassis protection pieces without problem. The finished lower hull with a dry-fit of the upper hull and excellent workable tracks. The tracks do take some time to assemble but the results are worth it. Here, the hatches with the scratch-built inner surface details are positioned and test fitted.
Some of the smallest details were added at the painting stage. The A7 turret is enormous! Even without the barrel the 1: All of the sub-assemblies were sprayed with a good coat of Tamiya grey primer allowing me to rectify any blemishes before laying on the colours.
With Vallejo acrylics and the Tankograd reference book, I painted the internal components I had made earlier.
I also finished the hatches with a little silver paper and some wiring. Some details I painted separately to be placed when finishing the model like the machine gun, rear lights, antennas, etc The first step was to paint them with black primer as the basis of the work. After masking the area of the rubber and inner blocks, I painted the rest with a base of XF and XF without mixing, first one colour and then the other, without covering either.
The result of the painting work was evident when I removed the masks. I started by applying Ammo Earth Enamel by controlled sponging. Gun Metal pigment was rubbed across the guide teeth.
The area was cleaned further by removing the excess pigment with a cotton bud. The completed tracks showing the fine detail. Remember to handle with care.
As for the wheels, after having painted them with the base green, I made masks for the inside and the outside leaving the tyres. The next step was to paint the rubber with a mixture of matt black with a few drops of flat flesh. On the side skirts I paid attention to the direction of the splashes working to my reference photos before blending.
With a barrier coat of satin varnish I was able to trial some weathering methods. Acrylics blended with water gave the dusty effect I wanted.
Before starting weathering I detail painted the on vehicle equipment and applied the minimal decals. While the upper-hull work was drying I started to paint the lower areas, with Vallejo acrylics I started to paint scuff marks especially in the prominent areas most prone damage.
The next step of layers was with the same acrylic paint and also pigments, I applied the second layer adding a drop of dishwasher liquid to the mixture to break the surface tension of the acrylic paint. The last step was the application of enamels in different tones and applying fluid and grease stains. I was happy that the finish was matching the reference images well.
Placing the separately painted details and painting the vision blocks with a crystal blue brought the Leopard close to completion. DEF Model produce some superb accessories and conversions; their modern camouflage netting is no exception. The pattern of the netting is excellent and looks perfectly in-scale. It has an elastic feel which is perfect for manipulating into the shape desired.
A little pigment dusted randomly across it helped break-up the monotone appearance. In my reference images foliage was added to the netting, I found natural mosses replicated this very well and the colours of course have a natural appearance. A final touch to the rear of the hull was to detail paint the exhaust outlets with some subtle rust tones and an application of soot stains with black-smoke pigment powder. Perhaps seen as a bit of a stop-gap whilst a dedicated Gun Motor Carriage chassis the M53 was developed, the M40 was deployed in the Korean War with the huge M1A1 gun's range of over 23Km it was suited to the terrain.
We certainly have a nostalgic affection for the Tamiya brand here at AFV Modeller and you have to admire their approach of very much doing it their own way and keeping things just as they've always been. For me personally, this equates to a kit which I know will fit together with minimal fuss and still have a decent level of detail; maybe not to the level of some manufacturers with thousand-part-kit productions that take months to assemble, if like me you find most pleasure in painting, a simple well engineered kit can prove just too tempting…as was the case here!
This is quite a lavish kit by Tamiya's standards, by that I mean there's a small sheet of photoetch, metal chain, miniature nuts and bolts and brass tubing. I moved on then to the front two pieces on each side. Given the angled joint between the two parts I decided to make them in one piece and score the joint after the basic shape was made. There was quite a bit of work required to work out the optimum shapes for the slopes on the sides, especially the way they meet at the front end.
After a little trial and error, and far too much maths for my liking, I got one side done then used it as a pattern for the other side. Next I had to add various small details to the top.
I decided to do the clips that hold the two foremost units of the side armour together in PE, as were the lifting handles as both parts needed to be very exact and were very small. I started with the plates they sit on. These were formed from stock brass sheet, with suitable bolt details added. The hinges were made by folding foil around a piece of 0. I unsuccessfully tried to scratchbuild the light guards from styrene, copper and then brass sheet.
So again I drew them up for etching In the end each one had 8 parts! Like everything on the front 28 half of the 2A4SG it has received an armour upgrade. This was pretty easy to do with a smaller blank of sheet styrene underneath one of 0. I took the time while I was there to re-work the slightly simplified and inaccurate splash guards around the hatch too.
Surprisingly the tool clamps have been replaced on the 2A4SG.
I say surprisingly because surely a tool clamp is a tool clamp? New ones were therefore designed in etch. They are quite a complex design so I broke each clamp down into four parts. I was now ready to start the slat armour when my friend Lawrence Goh of Echelon Fine Details sent me a picture he had taken of the nose of the 2A4SG from a different angle and we realised I had the nose angles wrong.
After thinking about it briefly I knew I had to fix it properly or I would have wasted all the other work done on the kit. I took the drastic and most direct route of adding a little more styrene to the front of the nose where it was deficient then marking out the correct, more aggressive angles and lines on the work already done and attacking it with a large razor saw and Dremel.
It was messy but a bit like ripping off a plaster; painful but best done quickly! It was tidied up re-detailed and I was very happy with the result, even with the extra few hours spent correcting it. I created a blank template from thin sheet styrene which was then test fitted and adjusted multiple times until correct. I could then use this as a template for the precise measurements I needed to make the slat itself. I worked out the sizes for the supporting arms. On the turret these are made from steel box section welded together with simple plate mounted bolts to take the slat panels which were easy to make from square section Plastruct.
I used Evergreen strip, 0. I built the external frame then measured and cut the required slats. To make sure they were all exactly the same length I cut them slightly longer then tacked them stacked together with a dot of CA and trimmed them and drilled the holes for the vertical rods. I then marked one end of the strips to make sure I knew which end was which before separating them again. All of the turret slat is placed the same distance apart: I then inserted 0. Finally I added a small section of brass on the inside faces of the slat panels where they are mounted to the arms.
When they were all finished I mounted them onto the arms and added bolt detail and short lengths of 1mm rod were then used to attach them to the AMAP packs. The hulls slat panels were constructed in the same way as the turret. They were a bit trickier in that they have more sloping tops and bottoms which meant a few more measurements were required.
This is basically the same as the standard German fit on the locking rotating mechanism on the ring itself, but the mounting arm is different. This means a new mount complete with ammo can holder. The race was on to get it painted in only two weeks! Large tracts of land away from the city state on other parts of the island are reserved for military use, but hardly any live firing takes place on the island itself. Instead they travel for joint exercises in countries such as Australia. A combination of lack of operational use and a strict maintenance regime to combat the effects of the humidity and ocean air in Singapore means that the countries big cats are very well looked after and kept in great shape.
So chipping, streaking, dents and dings and all the other methods of adding visual interest are out. I would have to rely on dynamic light effects, and drawing attention to the many details visible on the tank to add the interest to the finished model. When this was dry I painted all the details such as the tires with Vallejo Black Grey , the periscopes and so on.
The colour was very light and not quite green enough, so I added a filter of dark green oils. I diluted it until it was about 1 part oil to 20 parts thinner. Once I had got the colour closer to where I wanted it I added the decals. Of course, there is no kit and so no decal set for the 2A4SG available. Two license plates front and rear and a bridging plate is more or less it. I mixed a little white oil straight from the tube with some emerald green and touched it to edges and parts I wanted to highlight.
Generally speaking this meant panel edges. Here I added a little oil at a time with a small brush, then took a larger soft , short-bristled, clean and dry brush and gently swept the oil away from the edge. Over time I was making the oils used lighter and lighter in tone and applying less and applying it more selectively to build up the tonal graduation and make it more dramatic. I spent about one week just doing this stage.
Finally I gave it another 24 hours to dry and then started on the pin washes. For pin washes I use a mix of Black and Raw Umber oils heavily diluted again, but not so diluted as the filters. I usually dampen the surface first with clean thinners, working one panel at a time, and touch the details with a brush loaded with the wash and allow the capilliary effect to draw the wash along panel lines and around raised details etc. I finally added a few small chips on bolt edges and so on where parts had been removed for cleaning and maintenance prior to the Army Open House event.
I went around the model and added a few tiny chips here and there using silver acrylic mixed with a little black to dull it and reduce the toy like metallic look. The nose, although now very close, is not quite right.
To do this I have been drawing scale plans. I am also not entirely happy with the colour. This was partly the result of the time scale and an unfamiliar colour palette used for lightening which had a dramatic effect in altering the colours, something I will test more thoroughly next time. This picture fired my imagination and I decided to build a Drilling based on this picture to try and recreate the partially removed white wash finish.
There are two kits of the Drilling available on the market today the Dragon models offering which can be built up into an early 1.
Both kits are not without their problems as have been well documented on the internet and as I had chosen to build the 2cm gun mount I decided to base my model on the AFV club kit, whilst using some better detailed parts from the Dragon kit.
Much of the construction centred around replacing moulded kit details with etch brass replacements such as the rear door locking mechanism, the dash board and other various items of interior equipment. One of the major exclusions from the AFV kit is a number of recessed screws missing from around the engine bay hatches, these were subsequently added using a beading tool and a blade to form the screw head slots.
As I was going to show the vehicle with the engine hatch open so I could later add the jerry can I scratchbuilt the engine bay area and added details to the rear of the dash area using plastic card and copper wire to reproduce the details required, for the engine I used the excellent Great Wall Hobbies engine which only required a little trimming to get a good fit.
The missing screw heads added to the upper hull using a beading tool. The scratchbuilt additions to the engine bay. Details added to the underside of the upper hull. More specific to the Drilling the pedestal for the gun mount was too high for a late pattern 2cm Drilling, this was lowered to the correct height by removing material from the base of the mount using the Panzer Tracts book as reference, also both the etch brass and plastic gun shields provided in the AFV club kit are incorrect, being too small and with the incorrect number of holes.
To solve this I scratchbuilt a new shield from plastic card again using the Panzer Tracts as reference, further 34 additions to the gun mount came with replacing the barrels with metal rods and using the ammo links from the Dragon kit as they could be more naturally positioned coming from the ammo cans to gun breaches.
Interior Paint Painting any open-topped vehicle presents a challenge as both the interior and exterior must be painted in sympathetic tones to one another but be weathered in different ways with the interior showing more traces of wear from the activities of the crew such as paint chipping and dirt from the crews boots.
With this in mind I began the painting process, I prefer to paint as much of the model in sub-assemblies. In this case the gun mount was painted as a sub-assembly minus the gun shield and the only items left out of the interior were the crew seats and the spare ammo cans, the engine had been previously assembled and painted to be fitted once the engine bay had been painted and weathered.
I had also decided that on this project I would try and achieve the base colours using Vallejo acrylic colours instead of using enamels as I have done previously , to give the acrylic colours a good base coat to bond to.
Once this had dried fully 24 hours I mixed up the acrylic base coat for the dark yellow, I always like to keep my base colours very light as subsequent weathering will have the effect of toning the colours down considerably and it is far easier to tone down a light colour than it is to lighten a dark colour.
The colour I chose for the yellow base coat was Vallejo air radome tan which was further lightened with a small amount of off white, this gave an excellent tan yellow base colour seen on late war German vehicles, once the mix had been applied in 3 light airbrushed coats it was then sealed with an airbrushed coat of Vallejo satin varnish to protect it from the following weathering steps. The first stage was to add a little depth to the colour by adding a slight yellow tone to the paintwork.
To achieve this without losing too much of the Tan base coat I decided to add a glaze of Tamiya X24 clear yellow which was heavily thinned with water and applied using a large brush over the tan base colour taking care not to let the clear yellow pool any excess yellow was carefully blended away using a damp brush.
This glaze gave the base coat a slightly darker and more richer tone without darkening the paintwork too much, once dry, I added a filter of Humbrol Matt 62 and again left to dry before a further filter of Humbrol Matt The combination of the two enamel filters again added more tonal depth to the dark yellow colour giving it a better scale appearance.
A more localised Matt 98 filter was also applied to the floor area and along the lower edge of the interior walls to create a shadow effect to make a colour separation between the floor and the walls.
To define details and panel lines, controlled pin washes of Burnt Umber and Sepia oil paints thinned with white spirit were applied around details with any excess paint being blended away using a brush moistened with white spirit. Through the process of filters and pin washes some of the base colour dark yellow was inevitably lost, areas of highlights were reinstated by lining in highlights on the top of panels and any edges using a heavily thinned mix of Vallejo Beige, Off White and Pale Sand making sure any highlights are very subtle and not too prominent.
The interior under coated using a Humbrol enamel mix. Chips and scratches are added to the interior using Vallejo Burnt Umber paint applied with a sponge and a fine brush. Tamiya clear yellow X24 is then glazed over the base colour to add some depth of tone to the yellow. Further effects such as wet mud areas are added to the floor plates. Vallejo Burnt Umber was used for this technique on all of the interior fittings including the gun mount and the spare ammo cans being careful only to add damage where it would be appropriate and logical such as the wall sections behind the seats where the actions of the crew would wear the paint away and on the edges of the internal stowage bins.
The floor plates received more extensive weathering as The completed lower hull and engine bay before the upper hull is added. To further enhance the floor and give the impression of an accumulation of dirt and wet mud in keeping with the Hungarian winter theme areas of the floor were treated to a mix of Vallejo satin and gloss varnish with the mud deposits being made up from MIG pigments mixed into the varnish. To fill the rear stowage bins and add some colour variation to offset the amount of yellow in the interior I took various items from my scrap box, painting them in green and grey tones which were then weathered down to match in with the rest of the model.
At this stage I felt it was time to mate the upper and lower hulls together but then a thought occurred to me as to the colour of the engine bay, after checking, my modelling friends confirmed that the bay would have been left in its Red primer state, so out came the airbrush and once I had masked the hull I repainted the engine bay in Vallejo Cavalry Brown which is a good match for German red primer and once the bay had been weathered accordingly the Great Wall Hobbies engine was installed.
Finally I added a slight metallic sheen to any exposed metal edges using a 6B pencil which was also used to add a metallic finish to the gun barrels and breaches on the gun mount once they had been painted in using various shades of blacks and blues.
Exterior Paint I started by masking off the engine bay hatch opening and the vision slots on the upper deck. Next the upper and lower deck were mated together using super glue to attach a section at a time to make sure no gaps occurred, this procedure went surprisingly well with only a slight miss match on the upper hulls rear panels which required the addition of some plastic card extensions to ensure a good fit.
As opposed to replacing the kits front mudguards I decided to thin down the parts supplied in the kit and detail them using parts from the Aber etch brass set. This I thought was the answer I was looking for and would fit in very well with the overall look and feel I wanted for the model, I therefore decided to add some sheets to the model using magic sculpt epoxy putty which was rolled out as thin as possible then transferred to the hull sides of the model with final shaping of the putty being carried out with the putty sheets on the model.
Once the putty had cured the process of masking off the interior was completed. The putty sheets were left on the hull and would be painted in place as due to thinness trying to remove and refit them later could cause problems.
The camouflage pattern would be a factory applied three tone hard edge scheme which I replicated using masks. The base coat of dark yellow was applied as the interior using Vallejo radome tan lightened with some white, this again gave me a good light base colour which would darken down as the weathering progresses and it would match the interior colour scheme. To add a yellow tone to this colour it was glazed with Tamiya X24 in the same manner as the interior and once completely dry I could begin masking the camouflage pattern.
To achieve a very tight factory sprayed finish I chose to use the reusable roll out adhesive putty method of masking and as to the light nature of the base yellow I opted to use a white coloured putty as the blue version can sometimes mark or stain the underlying paint work. The putty was applied in thin rolled sections following the prescribed factory pattern using a wax shaping tool to ensure the putty had good contact with the side of the model to prevent any paint leaking underneath.
This can be a long and frustrating operation but being methodical will pay dividends latter on. With the dark yellow areas masked off I started by airbrushing on my green tone, this was kept a deliberately light tone, using Vallejo German Cam Green heavily lightened with basic skin tone until a slightly minty green tone was achieved once weathered this would tone down to a more realistic colour.
The green had been applied in light airbrush coats so I removed the putty masking to check for any paint bleed. I re-masked the model in preparation for the red brown phase of the camouflage pattern. The red brown shade is a very difficult shade to get correct at this stage as it has to work in harmony with the other colours on the model but not be too light or dark as it will not tone down to the required shade during the weathering to follow, with this in mind I mixed the red brown from a number of colours using a combination of Vallejo Hull Red, Medium Brown, Flat Red and Medium Flesh Tone.
These colours were mixed by eye to a shade I felt would look correct after they had been weathered down and with the Red Brown airbrushed on the mask was removed and after the new paintwork was sealed with an airbrushed coat of satin varnish. Using a reference picture the first part of the camouflage pattern is masked off using White Tac putty. To tone down the colours controlled washes of Humbrol 98 were applied over days to allow time for the enamel to completely dry. Highlights and damaged paint are added as per the interior.
Using the same method as was used on the interior various chips and scratches were added to the exterior.
At this stage the model looks very stark and toy like, so the next step is to tone down the colours in sympathy with each other to produce a more lifelike and in scale appearance, to start this process each of the camouflage colours were carefully dry brushes with progressive lighter shades of their base tones done by adding small amounts of Vallejo Flesh to their base mixes I chose to use the original Vallejo mixes that had been lightened for this dry brushing as opposed to the more traditional method of using enamel paints for dry brushing as I could not get a good enough match with Humbrol colours, the Vallejo acrylic paint is suitable to be dry brush as long as you proceed in small areas and do not let the paint dry out on the brush.
To start to define the detail on the model a Burnt umber oil paint pin wash was now added, this had the effect of further reducing the tone of the colours and adding depth to the model any excess paint from the pin wash was carefully blended away in a downward motion using a brush moistened with white spirit which also added to ageing process of the base colours.
Once the filters and washes were fully dry, chips and scratches were added to the exterior paintwork using the same method employed to the interior but this time as well as burnt umber Vallejo Cam black brown and Radome Tan were also used to re-create scratches and chips in the camouflage colours where the base dark yellow had began to show through also any detail painting required was finished off such as the exhaust and the number plate decals from Archer fine prints were added.
At this stage I believed the paintwork looked sufficiently worn and with the correct tonal values that I could proceed to add the winter white wash, the method for applying the white wash was the hairspray technique which I will not go into detail about as it has been very well explained in a number of modelling articles but one note of advice would be to use Tamiya acrylic white thinned with water as this paint seams to leave a more convincing flaked pattern when removed than the more water based Vallejo paint, as shown in the pictures the model was only given a light coat of white which was subsequently nearly all removed only leaving traces of the white wash in small areas such as around nooks and crannies and hard to reach areas which would be consistent with the white wash being removed quickly by the crew and the ravages of the winter weather.
In an effort to protect the fragile nature of the Tamiya white paint an airbrushed coat of satin varnish was once again applied over the model, with the varnish dry a second pin wash of burnt umber oil was carefully applied to help redefine some areas of detail that had been covered by the white. The start of the winter white wash was Tamiya white thinned with water sprayed over a coat of hair spray which had been previously applied to the model.
Now we see the effects of the worn white wash after the Tamiya paint has been scrubbed away using a stiff brush and warm water. The white sheets are now painted in with Vallejo colours trying to keep the tone muted. AK interactive enamel earth washes were added to the sheets to unify them with the weathering on the lower hull and to give the appearance of dirt and mud that would have been thrown up from the vehicles tracks.
A dark earth enamel wash from AK interactive began the weathering of the wheels and lower hull area. With this wash applied I next turned my attention to the white sheets, to add some depth to the sheets I had first under coated them in Vallejo dark sea grey which I proceeded to over paint with thin layers of Vallejo off white which had been slightly toned down with small amounts of dark sea grey and Hemp, as the colour started to build up on the sheets I gradually reduced the grey and hemp in the mix until finally the highlights were painted in with pure off white which gave a nice depth and contrast between the sheets shadows and highlights making the sheets look as if they had acquired layer of ground in dirt and grime as would be the case whilst attached to the vehicle in the winter conditions.
As all of the elements of the gun mount and the upper hull coming together focus now turned to the lower hull and running gear, the rubber tyres n the road wheels were painted in using a dark grey tone which looks a lot more natural than black then the lower hull was given a generous wash of AK interactive Matt dark earth enamel wash which nicely stated to darken in this area of the vehicle without loosing a lot of the previously painted in detail and giving a good base tone for the following weathering.
The areas of built up wet mud were blocked in as were some mud clots that had been added from epoxy putty to the lower hull and wheels during the construction stage using a mix of Vallejo burnt umber and hemp randomly mixed in varying degrees as to give some variation to the mud colours, this looks a little stark and unrealistic at this stage but further washes of AK interactive mud will bring all of this together to reproduce the look of mud and moisture.
Finally AK interactive fuel stains mixture was selectively applied neat from the jar to areas when wet mud would be prominent. The front 40 After washes to the lower hull and running gear mud splatters that would have been kicked up off the wheels were added by flicking some Vallejo Cam German Black Brown paint off a short brush with my thumb onto the areas under the mudguards and at the front and rear of the lower hull allowing some of this to drift up the hull sides onto the white sheets.
Once the completed gun mount had been glued into the mount in the lower hull and the aerial attached the model was completed apart that is for a crew which I intend to add at latter date.
My thanks must go to my friend Mark Beaumont for his advice at all stages of the model and the numerous reference books he lent me greatly assisting in the models construction and finishing.
To subscribe on the web go to www. Printed version only Please return your completed form to: Visa Mastercard Visa Debit Maestro Card No. Expiry date Security Number Phone Some of the aircraft in the first volume include a Roland D.
The book also contains technique features on rigging and painting woodwork finishes.
Around four hundred T Tiran 4 and T55s were captured, modified and pressed into service with the IDF right up into the early '80s. Once you get past studying the beautiful box-art it's immediately apparent that much of this kit is new tooling including the full upper hull and turret which exhibits superb cast textures and weld beads.
The Israeli mm gun comes with optional covered mantlet and well detailed. So Tamiya's legendary easy build, great detail and a great subject- what's not to like?..
Tamiya remain true to their brand and customers by producing kits their own way without following trends with a very wise move expanding on the T variants- could there be more to come? Tamiya 1: Two large dark grey sprues and two smaller duplicate ones containing wheels and suspension parts. Tamiya always try and balance ease of build with levels of detail especially with these smaller scale offerings, this vehicle must be a real challenge to kit designers due to the complex shape and design.
The chassis is simplified but with decent levels of detail for what will be visible and the wheels are good though some of you may wait for the inevitable resin upgrades. The hull is a simple affair with a one piece upper and separate side plates, all hatches and vision flaps will have to remain closed unless you want to resort to some plastic surgery.
The body features indicate a later production vehicle with the front spaced armour, splash guards etc. The turret allows an open top hatch and a commander figure is included to sit under the large characteristic frame antenna which is handled in quality Tamiya style. These early war vehicles could really benefit from a few photoetched parts, this more so than others.
I think Tamiya could have included at least the muffler guards as on Tamiya's 1: If dunkelgrau doesn't excite you the decals offer a dark yellow with cammo version from Kursk.
A nice, typically Tamiya kit which looks like a quick and easy build but simplified detail would benefit from some photoetched finesse. Bronco 1: As a youngster my first 1: This is one hugely impressive and detailed kit, ok- so you won't be able to assemble it in a couple of hours like the old Tamiya release but the trouble Bronco have gone to represent every feature is really commendable.
Along with the super-fine detail we're offered plenty of options with superb. This is a Ford produced vehicle and the logo is included on the rear panel to depict a or earlier model. A fully detailed engine bay and chassis can be revealed with the open bonnet option although there are a few ejector pin marks to treat with a dab of Mr Surfacer or careful sanding. Photoetched parts are included along with a very detailed decal sheet with five marking options including insignia for the driver figure.
The 37mm gun is of equal quality with an excellent set of optional cross-ply tyres. A highlight of the kit is one of the best injection moulded canvass hoods we've seen, moulded so thin it's almost transparent in places with superbly rendered creases.
With a choice of Jeep kits available we'll recommend this as the best we've seen - superb! Thanks to UK distributors and retailers Hannants for the sample www. D kit to produce what is a stunning recreation of the Marder II D.
Hull and running gear are carried over as you would expect and there are no complaints here with excellent detail as well as individual link tracks. Even the tires are moulded separately from the wheels. The hull is assembled from flat panels and although it all aligns exactly I experienced some twisting of the hull tub which is where a solid tub would be better. Bronco have provided a detailed interior with torsion bars, gearbox, driveshaft, instrument panel, final drives and seats.
The sloped armoured sides are well handled with recessed screw head details and there is a large photoetched fret providing a host of details including the large rear basket and its frame. The 7. This is very typically Bronco in terms of the high number of parts which obviously contribute to the enhanced levels of detail seen, but can make for a frustratingly slow build with so many small parts to clean up.
The plus side is that its all in the box and you wont need anything extra apart from your choice of crew. The instructions deserve a special mention too as Bronco have helpfully included CAD images along with the normal line drawings to assist in any especially complex areas which is excellent. The kit comes with a generous choice of seven different camouflage schemes on the decal sheet. Our thanks to UK distributors and retailers Hannants for the sample www. Toyota Land Cruiser pick-up, you could realistically find this combination anywhere in Africa or the Middle East over the last twenty years.
Meng present their kits beautifully with high quality packaging and compact instruction booklets, this one even harks back to the days of Matchbox's tri-colour plastic!
Let's look at the gun first which will surely be released as a stand-alone kit being used throughout the World for so long it has huge vehicle conversion potential. Two dark green sprues carry the crisply moulded parts showing superfine detail, multi-part ammo cans and belts, tube and pressed steel seats and finely rendered muzzles with the option to have the gun in a towed configuration, on the ground in firing mode with folded wheels or mounted to the pick-up bed on H-beam sections.
The barrels, although not moveable, can be set in three different positions to suit your scenario. A black sprue carries the running gear and chassis parts with the steel rims nicely done being shod in soft vinyl tyres with decent tread pattern although void of any side-wall lettering Tan sprues hold the body parts and interior, the doors can be positioned open and the roof complete with A and B posts is supplied separate so it can be left off as often seen with these vehicles.
A clear sprue provides glass and lenses which will look good and a small etched fret adds some fine detail. Another very nice looking production from Meng, top marks. Try photoetched parts, 18 resin parts and a full set of Bronco's workable individual link track not to mention turned brass barrel parts and a CD of instructions…throw this lot at the Revell, Hobbyboss or Tamiya 2A5 or 2A6 and you'll have one serious project with some serious detail.
Photoetch and resin parts cover tool clamps,suspension upgrade, primary sights, cuppola rings, Peri sight, turret baskets, hinges and fittings, engine fans housings and grills, mud flaps, chains for the smoke dischargers, engine deck lifting gear can be built stowed or deployed and much more.
The barrel assembly includes three different muzzles very early L44, later L44 and L55 muzzles , collimator, improved bore excavator and resin recoil gusset.
Add to all of this Bronco's excellent track set and we have a very comprehensive, quality upgrade bundle offering good value. Many of the elements are also available as separate sets, www. Dragon 1: Field gun Mk. II Following their previous 'Early' 25 Pdr. Dragon are now offering the later War and I think post-war?
The double-baffle muzzle brake is the main visual difference to my untrained! Some of the main features are superbly handled, the main shield free of ejector marks and beautifully thin and the trail legs showing delicate rivet detail on all sides. Tyres are moulded in DS styrene with good tread detail with no troublesome joints to clean up and a small fret of photoetch which includes an open ammo tray if you wish to display the doors of the limber open.
The problem is there's no ammo at all provided in the kit no matter what the box illustrates! Shortfalls aside, this is a nice kit which will provide an easier build than the Bronco version of this gun from what I remember seeing of their kit but does lack some finer detail in comparison.
IV Ausf. The Dragon Panzer IVs have become a benchmark for detail and accuracy but don't expect a quick build especially with the 'skirted' versions lift the lid and there's close to thirty grey sprues, metal schurtzen, etched brass parts…but fear not, as with many other kits in the series sprues are shared and many of the parts are unused. The moulding quality of these kits is superb with every feature beautifully replicated with every port, hatch and door openable except the turret skirt doors for some reason which is a shame a fully detailed cupola is a kit in itself.
Schurtzen rails and brackets rival etched brass for their finesse and will be good and sturdy joined with liquid cement to the hull. Another time-saver along with the zimmerit are the single piece Magic Track, not welcome by some for replicating the typical sag of the upper run but largely hidden behind the armour skirts anyway.
The decal options include the roughly applied HJ turret numbers of three different tanks and five other options if they don't take your fancy. So another superb Dragon Panzer IV, it's hard to think of a version they haven't covered but there's sure to be more subtle variations. Highly recommended. Stalingrad 1: These two sets are among their latest offerings S is a German officer in a superbly sculpted great-coat with map board under-arm giving a very deliberate salute and S is a pair of relaxed German figures, one wounded and his comrade with the option of a camera or bunch of flowers in-hand.
If you take a look over at www. These really are among the very best figures on the market, impeccable sculpting and casting which always captures the cut of the uniforms beautifully. The compact size of the vehicle means that its not that much bigger than the average super heavy 1: First impressions are excellent and this looks just like an enlarged state of the art 1: I found slight issues with the length of the floor panel which meant grinding away the rear lip to get the back plate to sit correctly.
The running gear offers the possibility of articulating the suspension although the fit of some of the components are very snug meaning that they bind on each other. The tracks are great and well detailed so no need to worry about aftermarket replacements. The two latest additions to the range are really superb and would work as stand alone figures or as a pair and there is a simple trenchwork base available to complement them and this comes with some assorted helmets and bits to dress it.
Both figures are superbly sculpted and feature crisp folds and the levels of detail that you would expect from the very best resin figures. The casting is also excellent with only very minimal clean up required and hardly any assembly. My only gripe here would be to ask for a little more length in the neck of the two individually moulded heads. The beautifully presented colour boxes offer front and rear views of painted figures as a guide to colours and the officer figure comes complete with a photoetched fret with weapons slings.
Extremely high quality figures that are just begging for a your paintbrush and its great to see the First World War getting some long-overdue attention. Hatches, visors and engine covers are all moulded separately and there are clear moulded vision blocks.
One error we have spotted are the missing rivets on the curved left hand turret side. The vehicle tools are also good and some are provided with photoetched straps but the clasps are a little heavy and are best replaced with aftermarket photoetched versions. I found several errors in the instructions with part numbers and two stages duplicated and consequently other sequences missing so watch how you go.
The kit comes with choice of four different sets of markings. This builds into a great looking model straight from the box and Panda deserve to be applauded for doing such a good job and for deciding to move up to 1: Lets hope we might see other injection moulded plastic kits in this scale. This release deals with the 'Dagem Beth' and 'Gimel' M51s and thankfully the familiar format of pure modelling reference is presented again, photographs, 28 scale drawings and 13 top-quality colour profiles will give you a wealth of information to produce a superaccurate Super-Sherman of the period with some great inspirational combat shots although the eight pages of photographs of the variation of 'mazzle' brakes is a little exhaustive!
An extensive walk-around section provides close-ups of areas modellers will want as reference although the photography isn't the prettiest being taken with a flash indoors, the colour profile illustrations are absolutely first rate with SabIngaMartin also producing a complementary range of decals to accompany their books with new and exclusive information shared.
At the moment I'm working on an M50 using one of the previous volumes as a reference which is very comprehensive and modeller-friendly, these IDF Shermans present a challenging build with their numerous on-going upgrades and modification, another recommendation in this series if you've a project planned. Thanks to the Aviation and Military Book Centre for our sample copy. The text and photography are very user friendly with plenty of explanation and jargon-busting along the way.
Michael manages to mix old-school methods along with contemporary finishing products to achieve specific effects. A good mix of project vehicles is presented with a lend-lease Chuchill, Pershing, Char B bis, Firefly and KV-1 all with their own particular look and feel. The tallented Radek Pituch remember the cover star of issue 65?
This volume begins with a look at the German armour abandoned or knocked out in the liberation of Paris and alongside some great zimmerited Panthers there are also photos of assorted French vehicles operated by the German forces, Renault R35s Somua S35 and Char Bs. Fascinatingly there are four views of the rare Sd. Two nice shots of the same tiger striped Jagdpanther are next followed by some late production King Tigers with ribbed mudflaps and one vehicle using transport tracks. The Fort Knox Panther G is shown next being transported for shipping and these shots provide excellent reference for the late war M.
As always there is plenty to inspire your next project and Panzerwrecks have done an excellent job with the quality of their images here. High recommended.
After a brief text introduction to the history of the Stug its straight into the pictures with one large image per page, running chronologically with the development of the production run.
Pictures cover vehicles in combat and behind the lines and one or two that have been knocked out. There are certainly several images that had my creative juices going with possible project ideas. Picture quality is generally good although they lack the crisp sparkle of the images in Panzerwrecks for example. If you are looking for an archive reference that gives you good coverage across the whole range of Sturmgeschutz then this will fit the bill. Our thanks to Panzerwrecks for the sample.
We will start with two of their Value Packages S and S for the Russian PT and PTB amphibious tank with complete new trackguards, bow plane, replacement engine grilles, headlamp cages and all the tool clasps along with a resin antenna mount and brass MG barrel. Also for the Abrams is set EA which is a turret bustle extension rack with resin jerrycans. Also for the new Trumpeter BMP1IFV kit there is set E which includes replacement trackguards, exhaust mesh screen, missile launch rail, turret stowage straps, bow plane, periscopes and replacement hatches or hatch liners.
The set also includes a lovely set of resin tow rope eyes and a braided cable as well as an antenna mount and turned brass MG barrel. For the Hobbyboss T Light tank Mod. The next set E is for the Hobbyboss WMIK Landrover with Milan Missile and this set has new radiator grilles, headlamp guards, instrument panel, excellent textured seatbelts, tiedown straps, sand channels and antenna mount boxes. Tire tread pattern is the same and it is the hubs which differ.
Separate hubs are prone to fit issues and this is the case here with gaps between the tire and hub that will have to be filled. The set provides a new resin mantlet and replacement. There are replacements for the on board cranes, new. The second set E is an M1A2 Tusk 1 upgrade set with seventeen frets!
There is new belly armour, and a full incredibly detailed set of side skirts on which to mount the individually assembled boxes. The armoured screens for the turret roof come with clear perspex inserts.
A stunning set but not for the faint-hearted! The book as others in their IDF Armor series is big on visual reference, the majority of the book being large format colour shots with detailed captions.
The book opens with descriptions of the Mk3 derivatives and then a chapter each on the Baz and Ramaqh in action followed by a section featuring the crews living and working with the vehicles.
Thanks to www. Fritz Lucke, Robert J. This is very much a history 'reading' book with very little visual content as modelling reference, if Barbarossa is an area of interest to you this will prove absorbing and informative reading. Most of the text is written by corespondents at the time of the fighting and is very factual and tactical detailing individual battles and movements of the kampfgruppes.
The twenty-or-so photographs throughout the book are poor quality so from a modelling perspective pretty much void of any reference but packed with facts for the historical and tactical buffs of the period. Infantry Division where the author served as a rifleman, machine gunner, tunnel rat and demolitions man, so as you'd imagine his memoirs are action-packed!
The extracts I've read are easy-going, not a book you need to read intensely, very easy to pick-up and put-down in short bursts should you wish. This is an excellent first-hand insight into the day-to-day horror experienced by these young men surviving the conditions and the North Vietnamese forces. There's over fifty colour photographs which would have been better for modellers in a larger format with all vehicles featured being Ms.
Recommended, and at times very moving, reading if you have an interest in Vietnam War combat. Thanks to Casemate for our Stackpole Publishing samples. Modern Infantry Iraq War Although we're massive fans of Tamiya their figures sometimes lack the edge of the kits in today's modelling marketplace.
Tamiya themselves maybe realise this and have released a few of their classic toolings coupled with figures from MB of the Ukraine, who along with Master Box produce some of the best styrene figure sets around in our opinion. I don't remember seeing either of these two groups of figures before I could be wrong?
Whatever the reason this is a very nice looking set of figures which will please the modern diorama builder, four U.
Marines and four U. Army figures come with a wealth of weapons and gear. Moulding and detail is really sharp with body armour nicely done, good sculpting of the heads and hands and excellent weapons with nice touches like extra ammo clips duct-taped on. The Army quartet are little more static in their pose than the Marines who look better with crouched action stances which would work well behind a wall or vehicle.
Tamiya provide good colour references and a bonus sheet of rations boxes to assemble. All of the decals are in 1: There's a large selection of choice and size on each sheet which should allow you to mix and match most scenarios from Summer Spring Each set has well researched and detailed marking descriptions and application guides. The new parts also fall short of the superb standards set by Dragon with not a great deal of finesse to report unfortunately.
No doubt this will be a very simple build and an easy way to add this odd-ball Panther to your collection but disappointing by Dragon's standards Mirror Models 1: Such a tiny vehicle means this is more like assembling a 1: As with the other Mirror kits we've looked at the vehicle builds from flat plates which will mean some care with alignment but ultimately better detail. The kit designers have done well to avoid any knockout pin marks on any outer or inner faces. A full engine and interior! Individual track links will be a little tedious at such a small size but surely worth the effort to keep the high standard of detail throughout.
The fuel trailer provides a nice touch and is of an equal high standard with the wheels provided as 'sliced' sections to give good tread definition. Along with Russian markings, Finnish and German are also provided on a small decal sheet. Building instructions are an improved diagram type with clear enlarged line drawings and explanatory text. Another high quality release of a quirky subject and more details can be found at: Block, J.
The book follows the usual format with an in depth look at the development of the different weapons systems, their deployment with abbreviated individual unit histories and notes on colour schemes and modelling. Then its on to the archive images, beginning with the wheeled Nebelwerfer and images of it in service and being towed.
Some superb shots of other experimental designs are included. The frame mounted Wurfkorper is also covered as well as the Nebelwerfer 41 with great images of the weapon in service.
Next is the Panzerwerfer which gets extensive coverage in a superb collection of archive images providing a wealth of modelling inspiration. The ammunition carrier version is also covered along with the rare Vielfachwerfer based on the Katjuscha rocket system.
This is followed by the 9 page colour profile section with profiles tied to the archive images that they are based on. The book concludes with a comprehensive walkaround section looking at preserved examples of the weapons and vehicles and the usual modelling section.
Without doubt the best modelling reference on this subject. During the Second World War the Soviets relied heavily on the use of tractors for their heavy artillery and mortars to make their way across the battlefield. Founded in , the ChTZ factory began producing agricultural tractors first with the S, which was a copy of the American built Caterpillar 60 which was followed by an improved diesel powered version of the tractor, the S With the outbreak of war in the majority of the 37, Sons of Stalin Stalinez were pressed into military service where they were used to pull the larger Soviet artillery guns such as the mm M ML and the B4 M mm Howitzers.
For me, however, the affection is of weeks my workbench was full of plastic After the invasion of Russia in the simply the fact it was a big, hulking tractor. During the course of sharing German army captured thousands of Something about these utilitarian photos, one photo in particular caught my these hefty vehicles which were then workhorse vehicles that really catches my attention.